Cream of the Crop 20/Cream of the Crop 20 (Terry Blount) (1996).iso/faq/ferretv3.zip/FERRET.TXT

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FERRET FAQ (part 1 of 5) -- ABOUT THE FERRET FAQ
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <[e-mail]>
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and
redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you can't
charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THESE FILES

PART 1: ABOUT THE FERRET FAQ

0. *** About this FAQ ***

   (0.1) Notes on formatting
   (0.2) Where to get this FAQ
   (0.3) Goal of this FAQ
   (0.4) Credits and editor's notes
   (0.5) Copyright and redistribution information

1. *** Where to get more information ***

   (1.1) Is there a shorter FAQ to hand out at meetings?  Are there FAQs for
    particular diseases?
   (1.2) How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog?
   (1.3) How do I join the Ferret Mailing List?
   (1.4) Where can I find pictures of ferrets online?
   (1.5) Is there any other information available online?
   (1.6) What are some of the books available?

2. *** Revision history of these files ***

   (2.1) Revision history of these files

Part 2: FERRETS AS PETS

3. *** Introduction to ferrets ***

   (3.1) What are ferrets?  Do they make good pets?
   (3.2) Are ferrets wild?  Why are there ferret permits?
   (3.3) What are the different ferret colors?
   (3.4) What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?
   (3.5) I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?
   (3.6) Is a ferret a good pet for a child?

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

   (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or a female?  What age?
   (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?
   (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live?  Do I need a license?
   (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?
   (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?  What's
     the deal with Marshall Farms?
   (4.6) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?
   (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

5. *** Things you'll need ***

   (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret?
   (5.2) Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   (5.4) What kind of litter should I use?
   (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?
   (5.6) Any suggestions on toys?

Part 3: CARE AND BEHAVIOR

6. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

   (6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home?
   (6.2) What should I feed my ferret?
   (6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements?
   (6.4) What are good treats?
   (6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip?
   (6.6) I'm having problems litter-training.  What do I do?
   (6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?
   (6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?
   (6.9) Do ferrets travel well?

7. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

   (7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something?
   (7.2) My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?
   (7.3) Help!  My ferret is going bald!
   (7.4) Is he really just asleep?
   (7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean?
   (7.6) What games do ferrets like to play?
   (7.7) What else should I probably not worry about?

Part 4: HEALTH CARE

8. *** Basic health care ***

   (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
     Declawing?
   (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
   (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?
   (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?
   (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?
   (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams?  I hear he'll help with
     diagnoses.

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days.  What's
     wrong?
   (9.3) What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange crusty)
     spots on my ferret's tail/skin?
   (9.4) How well do ferrets handle heat?  What about cold?
   (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas?
   (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites?  What do I do about
     them?
   (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms?

Part 5: MEDICAL OVERVIEW

10. *** Common health problems ***

   (10.1) Overview of common health problems
      (10.1.1) Noninfectious health problems
      (10.1.2) Parasites
      (10.1.3) Infectious diseases
      (10.1.4) Neoplasia (Cancer)
   (10.2) Other common problems and more information

11. *** General medical information ***

   (11.1) What are normal body temperature, blood test results, etc.?
   (11.2) What anesthetic should my vet be using?
   (11.3) Do I need to worry about toxoplasmosis?
   (11.4) My ferret won't eat.  What should I do?
   (11.5) What's Duck Soup?  Anyone have a recipe?

12. *** Medical reference material ***

   (12.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet?
   (12.2) Are there any other useful references?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

0. *** About this FAQ ***

------------------------------

Subject: (0.1) Notes on formatting

The answers in this file are given in a "digest format" which should
make it easier for you to scan through it for the information you want.
Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and
the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above.  In many
newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one
question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G.  You can also look for a
particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the
question.

Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for
example, [1.2] means that more information may be found in section
1.2.

------------------------------

Subject: (0.2) Where to get this FAQ

This FAQ is posted around the 20th of each month to the rec.pets,
alt.pets.ferrets, alt.answers, rec.answers, and news.answers
newsgroups.  It's stored on various internet access systems and BBS's,
including Compuserve and (I think) AOL, and it can be found in either
English or Japanese (possibly a slightly older version) in library3
of the FPETS forum in Japan's NiftyServe system.

The FAQ is also available by anonymous FTP in the directory
   ftp://ftp.optics.rochester.edu/pub/pgreene
(that is, ftp to ftp.optics.rochester.edu and cd to the indicated directory).
The files themselves are called part1.faq through part5.faq.

If you don't have access to FTP, or if the server is busy (as it often
is), you can also request the files by mail.  You can receive all five
parts in separate email messages by sending a message to
<[e-mail]>
with the single line (in the body of the message)
GET ANSWERS PACKAGE FERRET
To receive only a single part, instead send a command like
GET ANSWERS PART1 FERRET

The Ferret FAQ is also available on the World Wide Web, as a fully-
indexed, cross-linked set of documents for browsing with Mosaic, lynx,
or a similar WWW client.  Open the URL
<URL:http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/central.html>

If all else fails, send me <[e-mail]> email
and I'll be glad to send you a copy.

------------------------------

Subject: (0.3) Goal of this FAQ

A number of books exist which were written by experts and are intended
to be comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior and
medical problems.  This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those.
However, there seemed to be a need for a document which covers many of
the basic questions in a fairly light way.  Originally, this was
intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to
answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret
Mailing List.

Over the months, however, the FAQ grew, and its purpose broadened.
More general questions, and especially more medical information, were
included.  Although I can't claim that this is now a comprehensive
guide to ferret ownership, it is a good source of information and
collective opinion about a wide range of subjects.  Whether you're new
to ferrets or a long-time owner, chances are this FAQ will have
something interesting for you.

------------------------------

Subject: (0.4) Credits and editor's notes

Contributions of individual respondents are marked as such and
indented.  Other sections were either written by me (Pamela Greene,
<[e-mail]>) or compiled from a number of
contributions.

Special thanks to Kelleen Andrews for rewriting the section dealing
with introducing a new ferret to established ones [4.6], and to
Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, Dr. Charles Weiss, DVM, Dr. Susan Brown,
DVM, and Dr. Mike Dutton, DVM, for all their efforts on behalf of the
members of the Ferret Mailing List and all "ferret friends".  Thanks
also to Ayumi Takeshima for her excellent (I'm told) Japanese
translation of the FAQ.

Many thanks also to the following people who contributed (perhaps
unwittingly!) responses, comments, and corrections: Rob Alexander,
Carla Almaraz, Heather Bilicki, Jason Bolduc, Dick Bossart, Leonard
Bottleman, Karen Branzoni, George Campbell, Anne Charbonneau, Sukie
Crandall, Todd Cromwell, Ann Davis, Diane Emery, Deane and Tina
Felthauser, David Finster, Katie Fritz, Robert Galvin, James Garriss,
Mike Golobay, Pam Grant, Jenni Gray, Steve Greene, Jaime Greenfield,
Bill Gruber, Jeffery Haremski, Nancy Hartman, Skip Hartmann, Stan
Hurton, Sue Kocher, Arlyn Kerr, William and Diane Killian, Carolyn
Kinsey, Sue Kocher, Laura L'Heureux Kupkee, Jim Lapeyre, Chris Lewis,
Ed Lipinski, Dave Ljung, Jim Long, Jan Lovell, Charlene Lowe, Jean
MacGregor, "Miss Mary," Steve Matthews, Rick May, Shannon McAllister,
Mac McClure, Roger McMillian, Tryntje Miller, Linda Mooring, Greg
Mortensen, Rochelle Newman, Kate Pappas, Robert Rhode, Debbie Riccio,
John Rosloot, Bob "Rudy the Ferlosopher" Rudich, William Sebok, Sheena
Staples, Ayumi Takeshima, Karen Vance, Marilee Warner, Marc Wilson,
and anyone else I may have missed.

------------------------------

Subject: (0.5) Ferret FAQ copyright and redistribution information

This compilation, which comprises five individual files as described
in the Table of Contents above, is copyright 1994-1996
by Pamela L. Greene.  It may be freely distributed by electronic,
paper, or other means, provided that it is distributed in its entirety
(all 5 files), including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart
from the actual costs of distribution.  It may not be used or included
in any commercial or for-profit work without prior written permission.
(For-profit service providers such as Compuserve and America Online
are granted permission to distribute the files provided that no
additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.)

Anyone who wishes to is encouraged to include a World Wide Web
hypertext link [0.2] to the main Index page of this document set at
<URL:http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/central.html>
wherever it might be appropriate.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

1. *** Where to get more information ***

------------------------------

Subject: (1.1) Is there a shorter FAQ to hand out at meetings?
      Are there FAQs for particular diseases?

There are five parts to the main Ferret FAQ.  The contents of those
parts are listed at the top of this file.

If you're looking for something to hand out at pet stores, vets'
offices, club meetings, and so forth, you might want the Ferret
mini-FAQ, a much shorter document which covers all the basics and is
formatted to be printed out.  It's available as a Postscript file
by FTP from ftp.optics.rochester.edu in /pub/pgreene/ , or you can email
your address to me at <[e-mail]> to get a copy
on paper.

There are also FAQ's dedicated to several common diseases:

 Adrenal disease (adenoma, adenocarcinoma)
 Insulinomas (islet cell tumors)
 Lymphosarcoma (lymphoma)
 Skin tumors (skin and mast cell tumors)
 Cardiomyopathy (heart disease)
 Splenomegaly (enlarged spleen)
 Epizootic catarrhal enteritis (mystery green diarrhea virus)

These FAQs are not posted to any newsgroup, but you can FTP them from
ftp.optics.rochester.edu in /pub/pgreene/ .  You can also receive them
from a mailserver.  To get a copy of all seven files, each in a separate
email message, send email to <[e-mail]> with the single
line (in the body of the message):
GET DISEASE PACKAGE FERRET

To receive only a single part, instead send one of these commands:
GET ADRENAL DISEASE FERRET
GET INSULIN DISEASE FERRET
GET LYMPH DISEASE FERRET
GET SKIN TUMORS FERRET
GET CARDIO DISEASE FERRET
GET ENLARGED SPLEEN FERRET
GET GREEN VIRUS FERRET

You can also send me <[e-mail]> email and I'll be
glad to send you whichever files you'd like.

------------------------------

Subject: (1.2) How can I find a ferret breeder/shelter/vet/catalog?

An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, organizations, vets and
catalogs is maintained by STAR*Ferrets and is available on the World
Wide Web at
<http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/for-others/database.html>.

It is also available from a list server.  Send email to
<[e-mail]>
with the line
SEND FERRET DATABASE
in the body.  Note that the file is rather long, around 44K, which may
give some mailers problems.

------------------------------

Subject: (1.3) How do I join the Ferret Mailing List?

The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended.  To subscribe
to the FML, send email to its moderator, Bill Gruber, at
<[e-mail]>
and ask to be added.  You'll get a note back detailing policies and
such and explaining how to send letters to the list.  Archives of the FML
are available at
<http://www.csc.peachnet.edu/~rpoore/Ferrets/Ferret_Mailing_List/>.

------------------------------

Subject: (1.4) Where can I find pictures of ferrets online?

The Ferret Photo Gallery, on the World Wide Web, has a large
collection of JPEGs and GIFs.  It's located at
<http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/gallery/>.

There're also the Equipment How-To Photos, at
<http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/gallery/gallery-howto.html>,
which show and describe examples of cages, shoulder bags, collars, and
so forth.

Bob Nixon maintains an FTP site with many ferret pictures, too, at
<URL:ftp://ftp.primenet.com/users/b/bigrex>.

Most of the pictures at one site are also at the other.  If you
find any that aren't available from those sites, please let me
<[e-mail]> know!

------------------------------

Subject: (1.5) Is there any other information available online?

Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup
rec.pets.  The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" [9.5] is distributed
there as well, and is also available by FTP as
<URL:ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks>.
Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and discussions, as does
the Compuserve Small Mammals forum (GO PETSTWO).

An index of ferret information is available from Ferret Central,
on the World Wide Web at
<URL:http://www.optics.rochester.edu:8080/users/pgreene/central.html>.

Various ferret-related information is available from the file server
at CUNY; send the command
INDEX FERRET
to
<[e-mail]>
for a complete list, with descriptions.

------------------------------

Subject: (1.6) What are some of the books available?

Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief
treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues.
Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually
available in pet stores.  A few of the more popular are

Biology and Diseases of the Ferret, by James G. Fox.  Lea and Febiger,
Philadelphia.  ISBN 0-8121-1139-7

The Pet Ferret Owner's Manual, by Judi Bell.

A Practical Guide to Ferrets, by Deborah Jeans.  Contact the author at
   Ferrets Inc., P. O. Box 450099, Miami, FL 33245-0099; fax
   305-285-6963.
     "Excellent, easy to read, very thorough and up to date, and
     written with a lot of love and care," says Dr. Susan Brown, DVM.

Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton.  Barron's
   Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985.  ISBN 0-8120-2976-3
     A relatively short, but well-written guide.  Not as in-depth as
     some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets.

Ferrets in Your Home, by Wendy Winsted.  T.F.H. Publications,
   Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990. ISBN 0-86622-988-4
     Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable.  Includes, for
     instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also
     more expensive.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

2. *** Revision history of these files ***

------------------------------

Subject: (2.1) Revision history

The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date
at the top.  For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the
version number, but I'll always change the date.

 Version 3.0 - 3 May 1996
This is a "major" revision because I've changed the format of the HTML
files for the WWW version.  The changes don't make any difference in the
plain text version.
    Significant changes to sections 5.2, 6.5, 7.7, 9.5, 11.3
    Small changes to sections 0.4, 0.5, 3.3, 4.6, 5.6, 6.2, 6.9, 8.2, 11.1

 Version 2.8.1 - 22 January 1996
    Significant changes to section 4.6

 Version 2.8 - 16 January 96
    Significant changes to sections 3.6, 6.8, 8.2, 9.1, 9.4, 10.2
    Small changes to sections 0.2, 0.4, 0.5, 1.1, 1.4, 1.6, 3.2, 4.3,
       4.7, 6.1, 6.2, 6.4, 6.7, 6.9, 7.3, 7.5, 9.3, 11.1, 11.2, 11.3
    Insignificant changes to sections 3.5, 4.1, 9.5, 11.5

 Version 2.7 - 11 August 95
    Added sections 11.1, 11.2, 11.3; renumbered others as needed
    Significant changes to sections 6.6, 8.1, 8.2, 8.6, 9.1, 9.3
    Small changes to sections 0.2, 0.4, 1.1, 5.3, 6.2, 6.4, 6.5,
       6.9, 7.3, 10.1.1, 10.2
    Insignificant changes to sections 5.1, 8.5, 9.2, 9.4

 Version 2.6 - 5 June 95
 Version 2.5 - 16 Mar 95
 Version 2.4 - 7 Feb 95
 Version 2.3 - 26 Dec 94
 Version 2.2 - 1 Nov 94
    Reformatted all files; first version released on World Wide Web
 Version 2.1 - 28 Sept 94
 Version 2.0 - 2 June 94
 Version 1.2 - 3 May 94
 Version 1.1.1 - 15 Mar 94
 Version 1.1 - 28 Jan 94
 Version 1.0 - 15 Dec 93
 Version 0.3 - 7 Dec 93
 Version 0.2 - 29 Nov 93
 Version 0.1 - 23 Nov 93

Part 2: FERRETS AS PETS

Subject: (3.1) What are ferrets?  Do they make good pets?

Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters.
(Other relatives include minks, ermines, stoats, badgers, black-footed
ferrets, polecats, and fishers.)  They are not rodents; taxonomically
they're in between cats and dogs, a little closer to dogs.  They are
friendly and make excellent pets.  If you've never met one before, the
easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in
personality, but rather smaller.  Some are cuddly, others more
independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets.

Ferrets are a lot of fun.  They are very playful, with each other and
with you, and they don't lose much of that playfulness as they get
older.  A ferret -- or better, two or more [4.2] -- can be a very
entertaining companion.  They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at
least they act it.  They are also very inquisitive and remarkably
determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a
bother.  They are friendly, and they do know and love you, though
for some of them it can take a year or so to fully bond.

They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of
them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag.
They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small
places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although
they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day.
A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of
watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra
trouble [4.2].  Barring accidents, ferrets typically live 6-10 years.

Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives
as well.  Like kittens and puppies, they require a lot of care and
training at first [6.5, 6.6].  They're "higher maintenance" than cats;
they'll take more of your time and attention.  Although most ferrets
get along reasonably well with cats and dogs, it's not guaranteed, so
if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds
commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind.  Likewise, small
children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination
might be too much [3.6].

Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized.  Ferrets
are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING,
so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt
themselves or your possessions [6.1]. They love to steal small (and
not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind
furniture.  They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be
kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits.  Accessible boxes, bags,
and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are
liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging.  Finally, many
ferrets tend to scratch and dig at the carpet [6.1].  Naturally, these
traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common.
If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your
property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.2) Are ferrets wild?  Why are there ferret permits?

Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela furo (sometimes called Mustela putorius
furo), are not wild animals.

They were probably first domesticated by the Egyptians about three
thousand years ago.  If yours got free it would not survive; it would
almost certainly die of dehydration or starvation within a few days.
Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over
garbage cans and scavenge.

Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the
European polecat; they were originally used as hunting animals to
catch rabbits and rodents.  They weren't supposed to kill the prey,
they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters)
killed them.  This practice is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada, but
it's still fairly popular in the U.K..

A "ferret-free zone," or FFZ, is a place where ferrets are banned or
illegal [4.3].  In some other places, ferret owners are required to
have licenses or permits.  States, counties, and municipalities outlaw
or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, pretty much all invalid,
but I'd say that the underlying ones are that (1) many people don't
understand what a pet ferret is, and (2) the power plays which seem to
be inevitable in the world of politics sometimes end up being more
important than truth or fairness.  (Cynical but unfortunately true.)

What are some of those invalid reasons, you ask?  Well, a common one
is that ferrets are seen as wild animals like raccoons or skunks,
rather than a domestic species like housecats.  Of course, ferrets
have been domesticated for roughly 3000 years, longer than cats
have.  Another popular misconception is that ferrets pose a serious
rabies danger; in fact, studies have indicated that it's very hard for
a ferret to catch rabies, and when one does, it dies very quickly, so
the danger is very small indeed.  Besides, there's a ferret rabies
vaccine which has been shown to be effective.  A third common reason
for banning ferrets is the idea that escaped pets will form feral
packs and threaten livestock or native wildlife.  There are exactly
zero confirmed cases of feral ferrets (as opposed to polecats or
polecat-ferret crosses, for instance) in the U.S., and a few
deliberate attempts to introduce domestic ferrets to the wild have
failed miserably, so this, too, is an unfounded fear -- even if one
could picture a ferret harming a cow or breaking into a commercial
poultry farm.

The only states which now ban ferrets are California and Hawaii.  In
the face of overwhelming evidence, many areas are being persuaded to
change their outdated regulations.

Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come
from mistaking them for their wild cousins.  It's very difficult to
tell a polecat or a mink from a domestic ferret when all you've seen
is a flash of fur disappearing into a burrow, and polecats and minks
are quite common in the less-developed areas of Europe and North
America.

Because of the similar names, domestic ferrets have also been confused
with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela
nigripes.  Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of
the domestic ferret.  They are an endangered species: the only BFFs
known to exist are in zoos or in a breeding program in Wyoming.
However, despite quite similar appearances, the BFF is very unlikely
to be an ancestor of the domestic ferret, since the latter were first
domesticated in Egypt and only brought to North America comparatively
recently.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.3) What are the different ferret colors?

Ferrets often change colors with the seasons, lighter in the winter
than in the summer, and many of them lighten as they age, too.
Different ferret organizations recognize different colors and
patterns, but unless you're planning to enter your ferret in a show,
the exact label isn't particularly important.  Some of the more
commonly accepted colors are described in general terms below, adapted
from summaries written by William and Diane Killian of Zen and the Art
of Ferrets and Pam Grant of STAR*Ferrets.

    The albino is the old true ferret color.  White with red eyes and
    pink nose.  A dark-eyed white can have very light eyes and can
    possibly be confused with an albino.  These can actually range
    from white to cream colored with the whiter the color the better.
    A dark-eyed white (often called a black-eyed white) is a ferret
    with white guard hairs but eyes darker than the red of an albino.

    The sable has rich dark brown guard hairs with golden highlights,
    with a white to golden undercoat.  A black sable has blue-black
    guard hairs with no golden or brownish cast, with a white to cream
    undercoat.

    The chocolate is described as warm dark to milk chocolate brown
    with a white to golden or amber undercoat and highlights.

    A cinnamon is a rich light reddish brown with a golden to white
    undercoat.  This can also be used to describe a ferret with light,
    tan guard hairs with pinkish or reddish highlights.  Straight tan
    is a champagne.

    A silver starts out grey, or white with a few black hairs.
    The ferret may or may not have a mask.  There is a tendency for
    the guard hair to lighten to white evenly over the body.  As a
    ferret ages each progressive coat change has a higher percentage
    of white rather than dark guard hairs.  Eventually the ferret
    could be all white.

    White patches on the throat might be called throat stars, throat
    stripes, or bibs; white toes, mitts (sometimes called silver
    mitts), or stockings go progressively further up the legs.  A
    blaze or badger has a white stripe on the top of the head, and a
    panda has a fully white head.  A siamese has a darker
    color on the legs and tail, and a V-shaped mask.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.4) What do you call a ferret male/female/baby/group?

 An unneutered male is called a hob, and an unspayed female is a jill.
Officially, neutered males are gibs and neutered females are sprites,
but those words aren't as commonly used.  A baby ferret of either
gender is a kit.

The most commonly accepted phrase for a group is "a business of
ferrets".  Some people spell it "busyness" instead.  Another
possibility, "fastening" or "fesnyng," is thought to be due to a
misreading of "bysnys" long ago.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.5) I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?

There's really no way to tell.  You could be highly allergic to some
other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets.  If you think
you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has
one and check.  I've lost the note, but one person wrote me to say she
(he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try
contact with females or neutered males as well.  Also note that some
people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals,
but not to the animals themselves.

------------------------------

Subject: (3.6) Is a ferret a good pet for a child?

Many people have both children and ferrets without problems, but
there's a difference between having both children and pets, and
getting a pet for your child.  It's important to remember that a
ferret is a lot like a cat or dog, and will require the same kind of
attention and care.  It's not at all like keeping a pet hamster or
guinea pig.  If your child is responsible, careful, and not too young,
and you're willing to supervise and help out with the care, a ferret
will be a great pet.  Otherwise, consider getting a rodent you can
keep in a cage instead.

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young
children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the
proper way to handle pets.  A living creature needs, and deserves, to
be treated with more care than a toy.  Ferrets in particular love to
pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and
children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous
response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.

There are several stories floating around about ferrets attacking
babies, some more true than others.  Ferrets are unfamiliar to most
people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the
basis of a tiny amount of information.  Some of the reports are simply
rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret.
Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for
instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused
prior to the attack).  Still others are unfortunately true.

However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs
and cats.  The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny
fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs.  People don't claim
that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that
more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed.

According to Chris Lewis, former moderator of the Ferret Mailing
List [1.3]:

    The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three,
    cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously
    injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants.  One in the
    UK, and one or two in the US.  In none of these cases has it been
    proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it
    is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat
    which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK).
    And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented.
    But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic
    statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times
    *less* likely to cause injury than a dog.  Indeed, every year
    there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US
    alone.  Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks
    ever recorded in the US.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

    I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more
    bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of
    these species tend to do a lot more damage.  I have seen children
    require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the
    dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret.  But
    I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too.

    Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children
    under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting
    hurt.


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

4. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

------------------------------

Subject: (4.1) Which color is the best?  Male or female?  What age?

As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than
color or gender.  Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon
ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because
it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have
been bred from long-time pet stock.  Basically, though, choose the
color according to your own preference.

There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male
and a female.  Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and
3-5 pounds (that's 45 cm and 1.3 to 2.3 kg, in the US; European-bred
ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 1-3 pounds (40 cm and 0.5 to
1.3 kg) for females.  Males' heads are usually wider, which can give
them a more cat-like appearance.  If you're getting an unneutered
ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than
the cost to neuter a male.  (Unless you're specifically planning to
breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets [8.1].)

There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best
for a new owner.  Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be
litter- and nip-trained [6.5, 6.6], but they are larger and may have
acquired bad habits, too.  Kits are very cute, and their small size
and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new
owner, but they require a little more care and training and will
become very active before too long.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.2) How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?

Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be
around much, two or more will keep each other company.  They'll also
be more fun, but more responsibility.  Many people have three, five or
more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-)

I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it
you.  There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time,
too.  I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going
to get several, although it's certainly not necessary.  If you decide
you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along
just fine [4.6].  There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of
either gender in any combination.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.3) Are ferrets legal where I live?  Do I need a license?

Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated,
require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or
be entirely illegal.  This varies by state or province, county, and
city.

You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife
Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or
veterinarians (recommended in that order).  Note that some pet stores
in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner
store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't
necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

Katie Fritz has compiled an extensive, though not complete, list of
FFZs.  If you have or want more information, contact her at
[e-mail] or on CompuServe at 71257,3153.

Ferrets are still illegal in Massachusetts, but the legalization bill
was signed on December 7, 1995.  It takes effect 90 days from then,
March 6, after which ferrets will be legal there.  Hurrah!

Here's a list of some of the larger places where ferrets are illegal.

    California, Hawaii

    Washington, DC; Dallas, Ft. Worth, San Antonio, Beaumont, and
    various other cities in TX; Bloomington and Burnsville, MN; Tulsa,
    OK; Salt Lake City, UT

    Many military bases ban ferrets.  It seems to be at the discretion
    of the base commander.

    Although ferrets aren't actually illegal in New York City or
    Minneapolis, MN, they are not welcomed and may be confiscated or
    ticketed.

    Permits or licenses are required in order to own ferrets in the
    following places: New York State ($10/year), New Jersey
    ($10/year), Rhode Island ($10/year), Illinois (free).  Permits are
    also required in St. Paul, MN, and may be difficult to obtain.

These lists are by no means complete, so check locally before you buy
a ferret.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.4) Where can I get a pet ferret?  What should I look for?

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper
placed by small breeders [1.2] with kits to sell or people who want to
sell older ferrets.

You can also often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter,
and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the
country as well [1.2].  This may not be the best choice for a new
owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral
problems.  (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never
dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.)

In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers,
soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude.  You can't tell just how a
kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for
a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities.
Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but
they'll grow out of that soon enough.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.5) What are these little blue dots on my ferret's ear?
           What's the deal with Marshall Farms?

If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances
are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New
York.  Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy
because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets.  Some
people feel that MF's efforts to produce genetically stable ferrets
for lab use might have resulted in their pets being genetically less
healthy, but there's no real evidence to support this idea.

Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a
tattooed ferret may not be from MF.  Regardless, Marshall Farms
ferrets are no less deserving of good homes and love than their
unmarked kin, whatever your opinions about the establishment that bred
them.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    There has been a lot of rumors going around recently concerning
    Marshall Farms ferrets.  I'm not sure where they got started, but
    let's try to put this subject to bed.

    Sure, Marshall Farms ferrets develop tumors.  So do ALL ferrets
    [10.1.4]. We don't know why ferrets develop most tumors - we know
    that they are most likely to develop them between the ages of 4
    and 6, but not why.  But it is certainly not Marshall Farms'
    responsibility when a ferret that they sold two years ago develops
    a tumor...  To my knowledge - there are no inherent "defects" with
    Marshall Farms ferrets.

    Don't get me wrong - I know that Marshall Farms is the biggest
    breeder of laboratory as well as pet ferrets.  I don't condone
    laboratory research on ferrets, or other animals for that matter
    and I don't do any.  But I have never seen any problems with
    Marshall Farms ferrets that I could relate to Marshall Farms.

    I have a Marshall Farms ferret.  He is over 7 years old and
    perfectly healthy.  I would have no worries about getting another
    Marshall farms ferret from a health standpoint should the
    opportunity present itself again.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.6) How do I introduce a new ferret to my established one(s)?

[This section was written by Kelleen Andrews, with contributions from
others.  Thanks, Kelleen!]

Dominance fighting is normal in ferret introductions. The severity can
range from nearly nonexistent to all-out war.  Prepare for the worst,
and then anything less than that will seem like a piece of cake!
Patience is the most important virtue.  Often all is well in 3-14 days
but sometimes peace is not achieved for 3, 5, or even 7 months.
Ferrets that have been away from other ferrets for two years or more
tend to take longer to adapt.  Keep in mind that your final goal is
well worth the work and that having two or more ferrets that have each
other to love and play with is the greatest joy you -- and they -- may
ever know!

Many techniques can be used to ease the transition.  No one technique
works on all ferrets; a combination of them has the best chance of
success.  Reassure all ferrets often that everything is OK and they
are loved.

* Most important, make sure the newcomer is disease-free and current
  on vaccinations [8.2] before any interaction. You may choose to
  quarantine the newcomer for one or more weeks.

* If you can, and if you know that all the ferrets at the breeder or
  shelter are healthy and haven't been exposed to ECE, take your
  current ferret along with you when you pick out a new ferret so he
  can choose his own new friend.  Also, a pair often blends into the
  existing group where a single may have more problems.  A kit
  newcomer can be a plus but requires more precautions. Since a kit is
  tiny, if the established ferret is too rough you may need to cage
  it separately until it grows larger.  A kit that is constantly
  attacked and dragged around by an aggressive ferret may be seriously
  injured or become so traumatized as to want nothing to do with other
  ferrets.

* Make sure the first introduction takes place in a completely
  neutral area -- not just an unused room in your home, but
  preferably in someone else's home or someplace else neither ferret
  has ever been near. It also helps if other ferrets and distractions
  are there. One other ferret may be seen as an enemy whereas a group
  is seen as a party!

* If an immediate introduction feels uncomfortable to you, keep the
  newcomer in a separate cage near your current ferret's cage. Have
  supervised visits often, and let one ferret out at a time for
  playtime. The new guy can then get used to the new surroundings and
  the established ferret will not feel he's being punished.  Switch
  their bedding back and forth so they become accustomed to each
  other's scent.

* Give the ferrets baths immediately so they smell the same. Bathing
  them together may help since misery loves company. You might also
  put vanilla extract on their noses to confuse their smelling and
  bitter apple on their necks to discourage biting. Smearing
  Ferretone or Nutri-Cal on their faces will encourage licking rather
  than biting.

* Start out by holding the ferrets and letting them sniff each other.
  Gradually, as you feel comfortable with it, give them more freedom
  to interact with each other.  Expect fighting, but always supervise
  in case it becomes violent.  When you pull wrestling ferrets apart,
  if the loser goes back for more they are probably just playing
  rough.  A ferret that bites with a darting motion and shakes his
  opponent roughly or tears at his skin is being more aggressive than
  normal dominance struggles.  If you leave them alone, one ferret
  can end up with a neck covered in scabs, infected or worse.
  Usually when a ferret is being hurt he'll get very loud vocally,
  often screaming, but this is not always the case, so constant
  supervision is a must.  (Some ferrets scream when they're not being
  hurt, or even when they're the ones attacking, so don't assume the
  loud one is the one being picked on.)

  When undue aggression occurs, immediately scruff the attacker with
  your hand, or better yet with your mouth, and gently shake
  him. Scold him loudly, right up close.  Afterward put the attacker
  in his cage for a time-out.  Don't hit him, even tapping his nose,
  since that will only make him afraid of you, and he's already under
  stress.  If scruffing, scolding, and cage time don't work, he
  probably needs a little more time to adjust.  Also be sure to find
  the newcomer and reassure him he is safe and loved.

  If the ferrets groom each other, often around the ears or neck, it's
  a sign of acceptance, but do not leave them unsupervised until
  you're positive there is peaceful integration.


Unfortunately in very rare instances peace is never achieved and a new
home may need to be found for the newcomer.  Of course you'll want to
be sure the new home will be understanding and loving, but also make
sure the prospective new owner is aware of the problems the ferret has
had getting along with yours, since even if he wasn't the aggressive
one it will affect his relations with other ferrets.  You don't want
him to end up being passed from house to house, never able to fit in.

------------------------------

Subject: (4.7) Will my ferret get along with my other pets?

Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents,
lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions.  For a dog or
cat, introduce them SLOWLY, preferably in neutral territory such as a
park.  Give the new animal a chance to get used to you and your home
before introducing it to the other pets one at a time.  For the first
week or so, hold both animals (two humans is handy here) and just let
them smell each other a few times a day.  Over the next week or two,
gradually give each animal a bit more freedom, watching them closely,
until they're used to each other.  Once you're convinced that they're
used to each other and get along all right, let them interact freely,
but supervise them for a while to be sure.

It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if
they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing
to play, but there are plenty of exceptions.  The same is probably
true of dogs.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

5. *** Things you'll need ***

------------------------------

Subject: (5.1) What will I need to take care of my new ferret?

You will need:

   food for your ferret [6.2]
   a food dish (one hard to tip)
   a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle (see below)
   litter boxes (see below)
   litter [5.4]
   bedding [5.2] (not wood shavings [5.3])
   a cage [5.2]
   ferret shampoo (baby shampoo works fine too)
   a collar and a little bell [5.5]
   pet claw clippers (large human-nail clippers work fine too)
   toys (ferretproofed) [5.6]
   a veterinarian, preferably one familiar with ferrets
   Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and [6.3])
   Bitter Apple or something similar (see below)
   a box or basket to be a bedroom [5.2]
   a harness and leash (optional) (see below)

Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements [6.3] that
nearly every ferret considers a wonderful treat [6.4].  Bitter Apple
is a bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing
things.  The paste will probably be much more effective.  You may want
an H-type harness and a leash for walks.  Ferrets love to play in, and
empty, water bowls, so you might want to give them a rabbit-type water
bottle instead, or at least provide one in case their bowl gets tipped
over.

You will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly
if you have a large home.  Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and
for a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type
plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5
inches).  Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high,
since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and
you don't want messes over the sides of the pan.  However, one side of
the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can
get in and out easily.  This is especially true for a young kit.

If you're particularly sensitive to cleaning pans or to litter pan
odor, one novel suggestion was to use empty milk jugs, standing
upright, with the circular indentation on the side cut out.  Use only
a small amount of litter, and the whole jug can then be thrown away
when it gets dirty.

------------------------------

Subject: (5.2) Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?

Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed
[6.1] room whenever they can't be supervised.  This drastically
reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing
indigestible objects [9.1, 10.2], injury, and escape.  However, even if
you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times,
you'll want a cage at first for litter-training and other kinds of
training [6.5, 6.6] as well as for temporary use.

Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but
overall I think wire-mesh cages are better.  Tanks may be easier to
clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your
ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the
room.  Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap.

If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and
you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3
feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm).  A second or third ferret
could share that size cage.  If you'll only be using the cage
temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a
vacation [6.9], 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one
or two ferrets, perhaps three.  For trips around town [6.9], a
shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window
works well.

In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet.  A
ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even
on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or
basket works well as a bedroom.  Old towels make excellent bedding
[5.3], as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits.  Don't use
wood shavings [5.3].

Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you
put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you.  Hammocks made from
old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for
both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys [5.6]
will also be enjoyed.  Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's
cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or
some other way.  Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps
even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and
rather intelligent escape artists.

------------------------------

Subject: (5.3) Pet stores use wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

In short, no.  Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine
shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not
recommended.  Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies
and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example,
humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair
amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe.  Why take
the chance?

Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary.  Ferrets are
more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean
towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for
sleeping.  Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they
don't really have the option of using towels.

Of course, it would be better if pet stores didn't use wood shavings
either.  Corn cob bedding is just as convenient for them and is
dust-free and safe.  If you need some authoritative information to
convince your pet store to stop using wood shavings, here's an article
by Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:

    (The following short article may be reprinted by anyone desiring
    to disseminate this information in a newsletter or non-commercial
    publication.  This material may not be altered or changed in any
    way.  Under Title 17 of the U.S. Code, Section 105, copyright
    protection is not available for any work of the United States
    Government.)

    WHY NOT CEDAR SHAVINGS?

    For years, cedar shavings have been used as bedding for many
    species of small mammals including ferrets.  Over the last ten
    years, increasing evidence is cropping up that this may not be a
    good choice.

    Cedar shavings, as well as other aromatic soft woods, such as
    white and yellow pines, release volatile hydrocarbons which affect
    those animals living in them.  Plicatic acid, a volatile
    hydrocarbon, results in asthma in humans and rabbits. Other
    hydrocarbons result in changes in the liver, which may impair its
    ability to detoxify certain drugs, including various anesthetic
    agents.  Cedar shavings have also been incriminated in increased
    mortality in rat pups, and various scientists over the years have
    alluded to possible carcinogenicity.  In chicken litter, cedar
    shavings harbored more bacteria than other types of litter.

    On the more practical side, a 1986 article in Lab Animal evaluated
    many of the common bedding materials, also including hardwood
    chips, sawdust, paper chips, newspaper, ground corncob, rabbit
    pellets, straw, and hay (along with several others) for the
    following: absorbency, dust, endogenous effects on the animal,
    cost, use in nesting, and disposability.  In all categories, cedar
    shavings was not recommended.  Interestingly enough, paper
    products and heat-treated softwood chips scored highest overall.

    In my experience, ferrets are happiest in old sweatshirt or
    towels, which rarely cause problems.  Beware, however, the bored
    caged ferret, who may ingest parts of these items for lack of
    other stimulation, and obtain a gastrointestinal foreign body in
    the process.

    References:
    1. Weichbrod RH et al.  Selecting bedding material.  Lab Anim.
       Sept 1986, pp.25-29.

    2. Kraft LM.  The manufacture, shipping, receiving, and quality
       control of rodent bedding materials.  Lab Animal Sci.  1980
       pp. 366-372.

    3. Weichbrod RH et. al.  Effects of Cage Beddings on Microsomal
       Oxidative Enzymes in Rat Liver.  Lab Animal Sci.  38(3):
       296-298, 1988.

    4. Hessler, JR.  Design and Management of Animal Facilities.
       In Laboratory Animal Medicine, JG Fox, ed.  Academic Press Inc,
       Orlando.  1984.

    5. Chan H. et al.  A rabbit model of hypersensitivity to plicatic
       acid, the agent responsible for red cedar asthma.  J Allergy Clin
       Immunol 79(5) : 762-767.

------------------------------

Subject: (5.4) What kind of litter should I use?

Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter,
due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners or
dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it.  The litter
can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes
problems.  You may not want to take the chance.

Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons
that they don't make good bedding [5.3].

Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for
ferrets.  You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they
all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost
more or less, and so forth.  Some people even use alfalfa pellets
(rabbit food), which is often cheaper than cat litter but generally
doesn't cover odor as well.  If your pet is used to one and you
switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new
litter with where he's supposed to go.  (Also see the information on
litter training [6.6].)

------------------------------

Subject: (5.5) What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?

Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat
leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well.  For
walks, you'll probably want an H-type harness, but that's a little
much to leave on all the time.  The problem you may run into with a
nylon collar is that some ferrets will scratch at it, which pulls the
nylon threads and can tighten the collar dangerously.  Also, be aware
that both nylon and leather can shrink if they get wet, so never leave
a wet collar on your pet; it may shrink and choke him as it dries.

For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then
trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together.  Be
sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled.
For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the
stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length.

We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt
by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them
loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get
caught.  In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is
to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while
occupying them with Ferretone.

A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on
a kit as young as 9 weeks.  The slot on some of the smallest bells
is easy to get a nail stuck in, though, so you may need to widen it a
little with a nail file.

I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped hook for the tag rather than
the split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen.  Twice one
of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both
frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in
before she pulled out of the collar.  You can also attach the collar
and tag using a neatly trimmed piece of stiff wire.  For a nylon or
leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly
through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though,
since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down
far enough to drag on the ground.

Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar or bell,
although the first time we put them on our older pet she spent 15
minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour
playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went.

In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets.  Ours
have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives
enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!

------------------------------

Subject: (5.6) Any suggestions on toys?

Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't
have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing which might cause
digestive-tract blockages [10.2].  Most ferrets are rather harder on
toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly.  Plastic balls, with
or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed
(the little "webbed" ones break too easily).  Soft vinyl rubber is
okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily shredded and swallowed.
For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get stuck in your ferret's
mouth, and take them away when they start to crack.  Avoid superballs:
ferrets love to chew them to bits and eat the pieces.  Cat or dog
squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing
and easily squeaked.  Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect
them like it does cats.

Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and
some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun
to crawl through or nap in.  For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe
belts, tennis balls, golf balls, ping-pong balls, large unshelled nuts
(rinsed to wash off any pesticides), or old socks with bells rolled up
in them.  Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your
pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic.  Carpet-roll tubes and
tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too.

An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about
4" (10 cm) in diameter.  Wrap any loose wire ends.  Be sure that your
real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're
showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through.

No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will
almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as
well.  Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or
that might hurt your pet, well out of reach.  Unfortunately, digging
up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret, but there are some
things you can do to protect your plants [6.1].

FERRET FAQ (part 3 of 5) -- CARE AND BEHAVIOR
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene <[e-mail]>
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994-1996 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section
0.5 (in Part I, About the Ferret FAQ) for authorship information and
redistribution rights.  In short, you can give it away, but you can't
charge for it or include it in any for-profit work without permission.

The basic Ferret FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
wherever you obtained this one.  Most people will want to look at
parts 1 through 4, and perhaps skim part 5.  A complete table of
contents for all five files is given in Part I.  Please at least read
section 0 in Part I, About this FAQ.  In addition, there are separate
FAQ's for several common ferret diseases.  Information about those is
given in section [1.1].

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

6. *** Basic ferret care and training ***
------------------------------

Subject: (6.1) How can I best ferretproof my home?

Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes
around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving
fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and
cabinets close securely.  Ferrets love to worm their way into any
little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some
adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a
refrigerator or other appliance, into a wall, or outside.  Crawl
around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor, especially in
the kitchen and laundry area.  Even holes inside cabinets (which are
particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather
sloppy) should be blocked, just in case.  Also watch out for heaters
or furnace ducts.  You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and
at least one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum
foil, since most ferrets don't like to chew it.

Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers.  They can get onto a sofa,
into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a
bathtub, into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker, or over the
gate you thought would keep them in the spare room (a smooth two-foot
barrier will probably do the job).  They can also open cabinets, unzip
backpacks, and climb into some drawers from underneath.

Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets
don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and
chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with
sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside
a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers,
and anything else spongy or springy.  Ferrets love to chew on that
kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages
[10.2].  Some ferrets also like to eat paper or cloth; very small
pieces should pass through without harm, but larger ones might -- you
guessed it -- cause a blockage.

For some reason, many ferrets like to eat soap [7.7], so you'll have
to keep that out of their reach.  Also be aware that ferrets like to
dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are
quite poisonous.  Plants can be protected from digging (but not
chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their
pots.  If your ferret claws at the carpet, try putting down a piece of
plastic carpet protector.  Chicken wire, ouch-proofed and nailed to
the floor using U-nails, can work well too.

Finally, once your home is done, you'll have to take the trouble to
keep it ferretproofed, and keep an eye out for your ferrets.  Watch
where you walk -- learning to shuffle your feet can be good -- and
bear in mind that your couch cushions, pillows, blankets, and throw
rugs may be hiding napping ferrets.  Look before you sit!

------------------------------

Subject: (6.2) What should I feed my ferret?

Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams,
Science Diet, or ProPlan.  High-quality food may cost a bit more, but
your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier.  We've found that
an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two ferrets a
couple of months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food
is not very great.

The key ingredients are fat and protein, specifically animal protein,
since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough
sustenance from vegetable proteins.  Look for chicken or poultry, not
fish.  The food needs to have 30-35% protein and 15-20% fat, and
animal protein should be listed first in the ingredients.

Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years
old should get kitten or "growth" foods.  Older ferrets can have
kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be
switched to the cat versions.

Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and
let her eat as much as she wants.

Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally
contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it
isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth
decay.  However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or
surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two.
Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food
left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.

Alhough ferrets do just fine on cat food, several kinds of food meant
specifically for ferrets also exist.  One popular brand is Totally
Ferret, which has received good reviews by a number of owners.  If you
decide to use a ferret food, check its label just as carefully as you
would for cat food: just because it says it's formulated for ferrets
doesn't mean it really is.

Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and
cats) need.  Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine,
which is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods
supplement it as well.

Every so often, a discussion starts up about ethoxyquin, which is used
in many pet foods to preserve the unsaturated fats.  In short, it's
very unlikely that there's any problem.  The amount of ethoxyquin used
in cat food is far below the maximum concentration allowed by the FDA.
No adverse effects have been shown in any studies, including some done
by researchers not affiliated with any pet food company.  In fact,
ethoxyquin has been shown to have an anticancer effect in cats.  Foods
which don't contain ethoxyquin use high levels of vitamin E instead,
at greatly increased cost and generally reduced shelf life.

Laura L'Heureux Kupkee, a veterinary student, says:

    The original reports about ethoxyquin were started by one single
    dog breeder whose bitch lost pups.  They did not know why, so they
    thought they'd send a [food] sample to a chemist friend.  The
    friend analyzed it, and said it contained ethoxyquin, a component
    in car-tire manufacturing [but then, so are a lot of things,
    including many compounds remarkably similar to Petromalt and
    probably water].  The breeder was shocked and immediately blamed
    the ethoxyquin, the newspapers grabbed it, and now here we are.
    There was never any mention of the fact that the bitch in question
    may also have had some autoimmune problems.  Nor was there *any*
    proof that the chemical caused the abortion of the pups.


In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one
brand, is probably a good idea.  Ferrets are known to be finicky
eaters, and if the brand you've been using changes or is suddenly
unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will
recognize as edible.  To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing
them before you run out of A.  Add B a little at a time until they're
getting half each, then phase out A.  (Also see information on
supplements [6.3], as well as fruits, vegetables, and treats [6.4].)

------------------------------

Subject: (6.3) Should I give my ferret any supplements?

Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements.  They are
also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves
them.  They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although
their exact composition is a bit different.  Both of these contain
vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess, though
it probably takes a whole lot more than you'd ever give your ferret.
However, like hairball remedies, too much Ferretone or Linatone can
give your ferrets loose stools.  No more than a few drops to one pump
a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give
them any at all if you're using a good food.

Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat
hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis.
This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that
they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from
fur swallowed during grooming.  Even better, most ferrets seem to
think of this as a wonderful treat, too.  As with all treats and
supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much
by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for a ferret's
smaller weight.

------------------------------

Subject: (6.4) What are good treats?

Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables.  Although they're
not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a
high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt.  Just be
sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat
his regular food to get the required protein.  Too much of nearly
anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.

Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more
digestible), raisins, peanut butter, bits of pear, peppermint (small
licks), freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats,
puffed rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers, Ferretone, Petromalt
[6.3]...  Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small
pieces.  You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat.
I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to
blueberries.

Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be
allowed to have much.  This is especially true for young kits, since
the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily
cause them to become dehydrated.  Goat's milk, available in some pet
stores, is okay.  Likewise, I've heard that soy milk is good for them
and generally liked, but I haven't seen any verification.

Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins,
bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it.
Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause to
dental problems and may also contribute to the development of
diabetes.

Be very careful with chocolate.  Most ferrets like it, but the
xanthines found in it are strong stimulants and may be dangerous to
them.  It's not recommended as a treat.  Likewise licorice -- the real
stuff, not the plastic, fruity, red stuff that goes by the same name
-- is surprisingly strong.  It's been used for medicinal purposes in
the past; it might not be a good treat.

------------------------------

Subject: (6.5) How do I train my pet not to nip?

Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip.  A
ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite,
but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know
how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you.  A
playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his
teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you
need to discipline him.  Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they
just need to learn what behavior is acceptable.

Sometimes a ferret which has been mistreated will bite out of fear, or
an older ferret might bite because of pain, either in the mouth or
elsewhere.  In either of these cases, strict discipline isn't going to
do any good.  For an abused ferret, try one of the alternatives
mentioned below, and have a lot of patience: the ferret has to learn
to trust someone when all it has known before is abuse.  For an animal
in pain, of course, take it to the vet.

In all cases, positive reinforcement (giving treats [6.4]) generally
works better than punishment.  Similarly, don't set the ferret down
when he struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the
way to get what he wants.  Finally, whichever method you use,
consistency and immediacy are very important.

Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty
common form of discipline; but if it doesn't work, you'll end up
doing it too often, which will make your ferret associate you with bad
things rather than good ones.  Also, it's a very bad idea to use
nose-tapping or other physical discipline on a ferret which has been
mistreated.  There are several alternatives:

   If the ferret is biting too hard in play, try using a signal he
   already understands: a high-pitched "Yip!" (or "Hey!" or whatever),
   like the noise one kit makes when another is playing too roughly.
   "Freezing," which kits also do, can help, too. He should learn
   pretty quickly how far he can go.

   Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage [5.2] and ignoring him
   for a few minutes can be effective, especially if there's another
   ferret wandering around conspicuously having fun.

   You can cover your hands with Bitter Apple, either the spray or the
   paste, so nipping tastes bad.

   Some people have had good luck with either pushing a finger into
   the ferret's mouth (sideways, behind the back teeth) or holding the
   mouth open from behind (being careful not to choke the ferret)
   immediately after a bite.  Most ferrets find either of these
   uncomfortable, and it associates the unpleasant feeling with the
   taste of finger.

   Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed generally hate it.  You
   might also shake the ferret by the scruff, or drag him along the
   floor while you hiss.  Both these mimic the way mother ferrets
   reprimand their kits.  Obviously, don't be so rough that you hurt
   him.  You can also cover his face with your hand, which he probably
   won't like.

------------------------------

Subject: (6.6) I'm having problems litter-training.  What do I do?

Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage [5.2], and
expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained.  Keep a
little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and
to deter him from digging in it.  Don't let it get too dirty, though;
some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans.  Whenever you
notice your ferret backing into a pan, give him a little treat [6.4]
and lots of praise as he comes out.  Even if he didn't actually use
it, it'll still reinforce the idea.

Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up,
so don't pick yours up to play until he at least sniffs the pan to
show he's thought about it.  When he's out running around for
playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every
half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start
to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it).  Positive
reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than
any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time, and don't let him
out until he backs into the pan (even if he's just faking).

Rubbing the ferret's nose in his mess won't do any good.  He can't
connect it to it being in the wrong place, and ferrets sniff their
litter pans anyway.  As with all training, consistency and immediacy
are crucial -- caging a ferret for a mistake that's hours old won't do
any more good than trying to reward him for a whole day's litter pan
use with a treat at the end of the day.

If your ferret's favorite corner isn't yours, you have a few choices.
could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets
have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several
pans around your home anyway.  Otherwise, you can try putting a
crumpled towel in the corner, making it look more like a potential
napping spot than a latrine.  Finally, putting a food dish in the
well-cleaned corner, perhaps with a crumpled towel around it, might do
the trick.

"Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another
bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it
dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret
bathrooms but also as a general deterrent.  For the same reason, you
probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the
same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere.

Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there
is individual variation.  Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their
pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident.  Even
well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when
they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new
house or room.  In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate,
though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do
considerably better.  At least ferrets are small, so their accidents
are pretty easy to clean up.

Finally, if your ferret seems to have completely forgotten all about
litter pans, you might need to retrain him by confining him to a
smaller area or even a cage for a week or so and gradually expanding
his space as he catches on again.

------------------------------

Subject: (6.7) Any advice on baths, ears, and nail-clipping?

First of all, unless your ferret goes snorkeling in butterscotch
pudding or has a bad case of fleas, you really don't need to bathe her
very often at all.  It doesn't affect the odor much; in fact, many
ferrets smell worse for a few days following a bath.  The best
thing you can do to control your ferret's scent is to change her
bedding every few days and keep the litter pans clean.

The problem with frequent bathing is that it can cause dry skin,
especially in winter.  There's nothing wrong with bathing your ferret
only once a year.  Once a month should be okay, but switch to less
often if you have problems with dry skin.  Most ferrets don't seem to
mind baths much.  Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit, swimming
around in the tub and diving for the drain plug.

The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to
check her nails and trim them if necessary.

Jim Lapeyre describes the recommended procedure like this:

    Thus saith the Wise:
    "When Haz-Abuminal saw that clipping the claws of the domestic
    ferret was grievous, he pondered day and night for a year and a
    day.  After the year and the day had passed, he rose, and, taking
    the ferret in his lap, dropped three drops of Linatone upon the
    belly [of the ferret], which, perceiving that its navel had
    Linatone, turned to lick.  Thus distracted, the ferret heeded not
    that the claws were being trimmed, and there was much rejoicing.
    And when the claws were all neatly trimmed, the people were amazed
    and astonished, saying, Who is this who, alone among mankind, has
    tricked a ferret?"

If you have trouble even with this method, and you have a helper, have
the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone
on one of his fingers.  Scruffing a ferret will generally make her
calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should
keep her distracted.

Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it.  Place the cut
parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent
the tip from breaking later.  Be careful not to nick the line or the
toe, since in either case it'll bleed a lot and your ferret will
decide nail clipping is not a good thing.  Kwik-Stop or some other
styptic powder is good to have around in case this happens, to stop
the bleeding quickly.

Next you should check your pet's ears.  They shouldn't need cleaning
more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen
a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or an
alcohol-based ear cleaner (only if dry skin is not a problem) and
gently clean them.  Peroxide, water, and ointments are not
recommended, because wet ears are much more prone to infections.
Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it
into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear.  Yellowish or brownish-red
ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet
probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of [9.6].

There are also several excellent products made for cleaning cats'
ears, which you just squirt in and they shake out.  They're just fine
for ferrets, and your vet should be able to tell you about them.

Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water.  It should
feel comfortable on your wrist.  If you want to let your pet play in
the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide
some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of
swimming.  You can also take her into the shower with you; many
ferrets who don't like baths are perfectly happy being held in a
shower.

Finally, bathe the ferret.  Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears
baby shampoo works fine too.  Wet the ferret completely, either in one
half of a double sink or in a tub.  Lather her from head to tail.  Our
ferrets both start to struggle at this point, so we let them put their
hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed.  Rinse
the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water.

Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil,
which can also help get gooey things out of fur.

Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle,
depending what kind of mood you're in.  I find it's easiest to keep
the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in
one hand while drying her with the other.  Wearing a terry bathrobe is
helpful here too.  You could also put your ferret on the floor in a
towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a
rowdy game of tousle and try to run away.  Once you've got her mostly
dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll
finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems
to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage
floors, milk cartons, and everything except the towel must be
remarkably water-absorbent.  You can also try using a hair dryer on
its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that.

Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing
and bouncing from side to side and rolling against everything in
sight.  Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of
general excitement from the bath and drying process too.

------------------------------

Subject: (6.8) Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?

Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around,
roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk
on a leash.  To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for
instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when
she falls into it, shout, "No!"  The combination of the fall, the
noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to
staying on.  Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn
quickly.

The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you
teach her.  Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret
to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile.

Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of
it, or simply to please you.  Usually there must be some kind of
reward expected [6.4], though that could be anything from a lick of
Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching.

One very good trick to teach your ferret is to come
when you make a particular noise (for instance, whistle loudly) or
squeak a particular toy.  Just make the noise each time you give the
ferret a treat for a while, then make it when your ferret isn't nearby
and give the treat as a reward when he comes to you.  Ferrets often
won't repond to their names, and it's enormously helpful to have a way
to call your pet when he has escaped or is lost somewhere.

------------------------------

Subject: (6.9) Do ferrets travel well?

In general, yes.

Around town
  Ferrets love going places.  You can fix up a shoulder bag with a
  litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them
  with you wherever they're welcome.  Be careful not to let them get
  too hot [9.4] or cold, though.

Automobile travel
  Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in
  a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they scratch to get
  out.  Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they
  could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole
  into the engine compartment or onto the road.  You can use a water
  bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath it, since
  it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable spills.

Airplane travel
  Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in

  under-seat cat carriers, for an additional charge.  (America West,
  Air Canada, and Delta do, and I once got a special exception from
  Continental after talking with their customer service folks for a
  while.  Any others?)  Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not
  generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with
  temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this
  way.  Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard
  aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky
  coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I
  have no experience with that.  Tranquilizing the ferret isn't
  recommended -- it'll disorient him, and ferrets sleep a lot anyway.

Hotels
  Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to
  call ahead and make sure.  Also leave a note to reassure the maids.

Canada/U.S. border crossings
  A 1992 brochure I received from Canadian Customs says that pet
  ferrets accompanying their owners from the U.S. into Canada don't
  need any special health certificates or import licenses, but more
  recent information indicates that an import permit is indeed
  necessary.  There is a current (1995) proposal to change that,
  though, and put ferrets in the same category as dogs and cats.
  Meanwhile, especially at smaller crossing stations, the guard you
  encounter may not know that the permit is needed.

  Bringing them back into the U.S. may be more difficult, though all I
  needed was a rabies certificate and proof that the ferrets came from
  the U.S. in the first place (a NY state license, in my case; if you
  don't have one, register your pets with U.S. Customs before you
  enter Canada).  I don't know much about Canadian residents bringing
  ferrets into the U.S. or taking them back home.

Legal issues
  You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas
  you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets
  are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have
  had, just in case.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

7. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

------------------------------

Subject: (7.1) How do I know if my ferret likes something?

If he stays still for your petting, plays with his toys, grabs the
treat from you, or "chuckles" while playing, he likes it.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.2) My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?

Generally, yes.  Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons.  First,
they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body
temperatures.  Second, they shake or quiver when excited or
frightened.  For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since
everything is new and interesting.  For older ferrets, a bath or even
a good scolding could prompt trembling.

If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make
sure there's no cold draft around.  (Ferrets can live fine outdoors,
with blankets and shade, but indoor lighting can cause their winter
coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside
to need one.)  If that's not the problem, check with a vet.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.3) Help!  My ferret is going bald!

Ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the fall and spring.  The
times for these changes vary somewhat for ferrets kept in indoor
lighting conditions.  Fur will come out by the handful, all over the
ferret, and his coat may look a bit sparse before the new one grows
in.  Hair loss just on the tail, often accompanied by black spots or
reddish wax, is also common [9.3].  Tail hair loss is sometimes
caused by mites, in which case you can try washing it daily with an
antibacterial soap for a week, then waiting a couple of weeks for the
hair to grow back.

Otherwise, baldness can be caused by several things.  Poor nutrition,
a severe mite infection, and dry skin are possibilities.  A nearly
bald tail can be caused by the shedding cycle or by stress, and is not
uncommon in intact animals during breeding season.

Finally, baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal lesions
in ferrets [10.2].  Any unexplained hair loss should be checked out
quickly.  If it begins on the tail and progresses forward, eventually
leaving hair only on the head and extremities, that's almost certainly
the problem.  See a vet immediately.

Most common blood tests, even the ones which test specifically for the
presence of estrogen in the blood, will not detect an adrenal problem
in ferrets.  There is a new estradiol test which works reasonably
well; see the Ferret Adrenal Disease FAQ [1.1] for more information.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.4) Is he really just asleep?

In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults.  A two- to four-
hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical.  Ferrets
sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they
sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up.  You can
take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're
asleep.  It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and
sit, though.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.5) What does such-and-such a noise mean?

Nothing
  Most ferrets don't make much noise.  This doesn't mean they're
  unhappy, it just means, well, they're quiet.

Clucking, "dooking," or chuckling
  Indicates happiness or excitement.  Often uttered while playing or
  exploring a new area.

Occasional sneezes
  If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd sneeze too.  Also,
  ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their chins, and sneezing
  can be a way of forcing some of the scent out so it can be rubbed on
  something.

Whimpering/whining
  Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement noise.  It can
  also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match.

Hissing
  Frustration or anger.  Ferrets often hiss while they're fighting,
  even if it's just in play.

Screeching/loud chittering
  Extreme fright or pain.  This is your cue that it's time to go
  rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten itself into. It can also
  be a sign of anger.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.6) What games do ferrets like to play?

Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and
so forth, with each other or with you.  Ours love to bounce around on
our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack
each other through the throw rugs.

If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your
pants leg, he wants to play.  An appropriate response would be to get
down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a
washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance.

Ferrets like to jump and climb.  They're good at finding complicated
ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging
heights.  Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try
to jump down.

For some reason, many ferrets wag their tails quickly when they have
their front ends in a tube or under a rug and they see something
interesting (a toy, a sock, another ferret) at the other end.

Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most
inaccessible location possible.  Protect your keys and wallet.

A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with
an arched back.  Clucking is common too.  Dancing or just careening
into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to
just bounce off of such obstacles.  Unless they actually injure
themselves, don't worry about them; they're having fun.

------------------------------

Subject: (7.7) What else should I probably not worry about?

Scratching
  Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters.  If you don't see any
  fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's probably not fleas,
  so as long as the skin isn't irritated or balding don't worry about
  it.  If you see little white flakes, it may be dry skin.

Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear
  This is a normal thing to do, especially after a bath.  It helps
  spread the ferret's scent around.

 Licking urine
  It's not uncommon for a ferret to take a few laps of urine, its
  own or another ferret's.  Nobody's really sure why they do it, but
  it won't hurt them.

Hiccups
  Hiccups are not uncommon, especially in young kits, who sometimes
  seem alarmed by them.  A comforting scritch, a drink of water, or a
  small treat [6.4] can help.

Tail puffing
  A ferret's tail will bottle-brush when he's excited or upset.
  He's not necessarily frightened.  He'd have to be really
  worked up for the hair on the rest of his body to stand up, though.

Ear suckling
  Often ferrets will suck on each others' ears, and sometimes even
  cats' or dogs' ears, especially when they're sleeping.  It's
  probably a lot like thumb-sucking in humans, and nothing to worry
  about as long as the one doing the sucking is eating well and the
  onther one's ears aren't getting sore.

Licking soap
  For some reason, many ferrets love to eat soap, stealing it from
  the bathroom or even licking the tub.  A little bit of soap won't
  hurt your ferret, though it may give her diarrhea.  Don't give it to
  her as a treat, of course, and try to keep it out of her reach, but
  it's nothing to panic about unless she manages to eat a lot.

Summer weight loss, in males
  Normally, weight loss is something to be concerned about, but
  many males lose a fair bit of weight, even as much as 40% of their
  bulk, in the summer and gain it back in the fall.  It's mainly
  preparation for breeding, but it's common in neutered males, too.
  If your ferret seems otherwise healthy and happy, don't worry.

8. *** Basic health care ***

------------------------------

Subject: (8.1) Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
           Declawing?

Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering
drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his
territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in
season may kill other ferrets, even females).  Spaying saves a
female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred
or she will almost certainly die of anemia.  However, many people
disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very
early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months
old.  It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into
heat, but apart from that there's no rush.

Breeding ferrets is difficult and time-consuming.  The actual mating
is rather violent, and jills tend to have problems giving birth,
producing milk, and so forth.  If you're serious about breeding, talk
to someone who has first.  You'll need to have more than one whole
male available (in case your female goes into heat when your male
isn't) and more than one breeding female available (in case you need a
foster mom because your jill has milk problems) -- and be prepared to
lose some or all of the kits and perhaps the mom too.  Grim, but true.

There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or
useful, and some belief that it's harmful.  It's bad for a ferret's
health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be
somewhat harmful when done at any age.  Many people feel that the
procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who
aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented.
Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly
distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as
effectively as a skunk, it doesn't smell as bad, and it dissipates in
just a few seconds.  How often a ferret sprays and how bad it smells
depend on the individual ferret, and different people have different
tolerances for the scent, so if given the option you may want to wait
and see if you think descenting is necessary in your particular case.

Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits.  Many breeders sell
kits which have been neutered but not descented.

Ferrets have nails like dogs, not cats.  They shouldn't be declawed.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.2) What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine
    Kits should get three shots, four weeks apart, with the last one
    no earlier than 14 weeks; for example, shots at 8, 12, and 16
    weeks.  (Some vets recommend four shots, three weeks apart,
    instead.  Two is not enough.)  Then a yearly booster shot.
    Although rabies gets more press, the canine distemper vaccine is
    much more important for your ferret's health.

    Adults who have never been vaccinated, or whose vaccination status
    is unknown, should get two canine distemper shots, three weeks
    apart, then yearly boosters.  If you know they've been vaccinated
    within the last year, then one shot is enough.

    If you can't get Fervac-D or Fromm-D, or if your ferret has
    reacted to them in the past, Galaxy-D is an acceptable third
    choice.  If you can't get either of these, you're taking the risk
    that your ferret won't be protected, or worse, that he'll become
    sick from the vaccine.  At least be sure that it's a vaccine for
    canine distemper which is a MODIFIED LIVE virus and was NOT
    cultured in ferret tissue.

Imrab-3 rabies vaccine
    One vaccination at 14-16 weeks, separated from the distemper
    vaccines by 2-3 weeks, then boosters yearly.  This is the same
    rabies vaccine that's used for dogs and cats, so your vet should
    have it around.  It's good for three years in cats, but only one
    year in ferrets, mainly because the company hasn't done tests to
    see how long it lasts in ferrets.  This is the only rabies vaccine
    approved for ferrets.

Comments
     Ferrets do not need to be vaccinated for feline distemper or
     parvo.  They should not be given a 5-way dog vaccine.

     It's best to give the distemper and rabies vaccines be spaced a
     couple of weeks apart, since giving them at the same time seems
     to increase the chances of an adverse reaction.

     If you want to change a ferret's vaccination schedule, for
     instance to move all your pets to the same schedule, you can
     safely give another vaccination as long as it's been at least a
     month since the last one.

     Most states don't recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets,
     because official studies of virus shedding time in ferrets are
     yet to be done.  This means that even if your ferret is
     vaccinated, it may be destroyed if someone reports to the
     authorities that they were bitten.  However, having the
     vaccination may keep the person from reporting a bite in the
     first place, and of course it will protect your ferrets from
     getting rabies.  (Even closely watched ferrets do occasionally
     escape.)

Like any other animals, ferrets occasionally have adverse reactions to
vaccinations, typically on the second or third exposure to a
particular vaccine.  Reactions are rare, but they can be
life-threatening.  You may want to stay at your vet's for 30-60
minutes after a vaccination, just in case of a reaction.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.3) Can I vaccinate my own ferrets?

It's not recommended.  Giving an intramuscular injection to a
squirming or nippy animal is not easy.  Even experienced veterinarians
with good technicians sometimes get bitten.  Also, an injection in the
wrong place can injure the sciatic nerve and permanently paralyze the
ferret's leg; and in case of a bad reaction to the vaccine, a vet has
the experience and equipment on hand which may be needed to save the
ferret's life.

In addition, a licensed veterinarian's signature is required for a
rabies certificate to be legal.  The annual trip to the vet (or semi-
annual, for older ferrets) [8.4] is also the best time to have your
ferrets checked for other health problems.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

    Unfortunately, vaccination are what supports the vets - sick
    animals don't.  The extra few dollars is what pays the help, and
    the electricity, what feeds the strays that are dropped off weekly
    to your vets, or the dogs that nobody bothers to pick up.  Or the
    ones that are hit by cars and dropped off by Good Samaritans.

However, if you have a lot of ferrets to be vaccinated, you may be
able to save yourself some money by purchasing the vaccines themselves
directly from the manufacturer and taking them to your vet to be used.
You save on the materials, but you still get your vet's expertise.
Check with your vet to see if he or she will work with you like this.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.4) What kind of checkups should my ferret be having?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    I know that some practicing vets consider a 3-year animal to be
    "geriatric" and to require a CBC [complete blood cell count] and a
    fasting blood glucose yearly, but as one who stands to make no
    money on this deal anyway, I don't recommend it until age 5.
    Three years is just too young to consider a ferret geriatric.

    Now, remember, all ferrets are different.  If you have one that is
    sort of "puny", never eats well, sluggish, etc.  a yearly CBC and
    glucose is a good idea every year.  But if your three or 4 year
    olds are healthy, well, then it's just not required.  I start mine
    at 5 years.

    Considering dental work - have your vet check the teeth and then
    recommend who needs it.  Not every ferret will need to have it
    done, and if your 4 year olds have been on hard food all of their
    lives, chances are good that they may not need any work yet.

    Remember - a healthy 3- or 4-year old doesn't necessarily require
    any annual bloodwork, but a sickly 2 year old should get it on at
    least an annual basis.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.5) Are ferrets really as prone to disease as it seems?

A lot of the discussion about ferrets on rec.pets and the Ferret
Mailing List (FML) deals with health problems, and it's easy to get
the impression that ferrets are constantly ill.  In fact, they're
pretty hardy animals.

As Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, puts it:

    Ferrets are no more prone to disease than other animals.  However,
    they do have a much shorter lifespan, so these problems come up an
    a more frequent basis.  Plus, most of us own anywhere between two
    and fifteen animals, and many own more than this, or run shelters.
    When you are dealing with such large numbers of animals, you will
    have proportionately more health problems.

    Also, the FML also has several vets that give health advice.  We
    are well known as a place where you can get a prompt response to a
    question about the health of your animal, and several of us also
    are involved with the health care of many of the animals which you
    read about.

    Another thing to consider is that many of the FMLers live in areas
    where vets are not very familiar with ferrets and their diseases,
    so the FML is a good place to get a second opinion or advice for
    their vets.  I field anywhere from 3-8 phone calls daily [8.6] on
    ferret matters from veterinarians around the country.

    Any type of animal that you may obtain as a pet will have
    predisposition to disease.  Ferrets should be expected to get
    diseases of their own, too.  But as most people on the FML will
    tell you, the benefits are far more than the risks.

------------------------------

Subject: (8.6) How do I contact Dr. Williams?  I hear he'll help
     with diagnoses.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, is a ferret expert who works in the
Department of Veterinary Pathology at the Armed Forces Institute of
Pathology.  The AFIP is keenly interested in the diseases of ferrets.
Because of this, Dr. Williams is available to provide a second opinion
about any diagnosis.  He says:

    I encourage owners who have questions to USE [my phone number].
    Have your vets USE IT.  If I minded people sending me email [at
    <[e-mail]>] or calling me on the phone (remember, it's
    Mon.-Fri.), I wouldn't post it.  Because of my workload, I
    concentrate now only on medical questions.  But if you have a
    question, and your vet can't seem to answer, feel free to give me
    a call.

    Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, DACVP
    Armed Forces Institute of Pathology
    [phone]/2602
    fax [phone]

Dr. Williams also operates a pathology lab, AccuPath, on his own time.
Tissues of all kinds can be sent there for low-cost, expert examination
with a short turnaround time.  Contact him at <[e-mail]>
or [phone] for more information.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

------------------------------

Subject: (9.1) What warning signs of disease should I look for?

An outline of noninfectious, parasitic, infectious, and cancerous
health problems in the pet ferret is also available [10.1], as are
brief explanations of some of the more common ones [10.2].

NOTE: I am not a veterinarian.  I haven't even owned ferrets very
long.  (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret
expert.)  The following is by no means a comprehensive list of
symptoms of disease in ferrets.  However, some of the more common
problems are often accompanied by these symptoms.  If you notice one
of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet.

ALSO: Ferrets are small.  While they generally enjoy good health, any
kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in a surprisingly short time,
so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, etc.
  Symptomatic of a number of problems.

Lack of bowel movement
  If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter
  pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal
  blockage.  Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to
  the vet immediately.  Note that a ferret can continue to defecate
  for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste
  in the intestines to be eliminated.

  Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

     More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a
     lack of food intake for some other reason.

     Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day.
     Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a
     little loose.  Also look for string-like stools.  Ferrets with
     intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very
     thin- like a pencil lead.  But adequate ferret-proofing [6.1] is
     much more important than stool-watching.

Swollen or painful abdomen
  Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic
  enlargement, or even just fat animals.  Pain could be from any of
  several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage,
  caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an
  eraser.  Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though.

Change in "bathroom" habits
  Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than
  usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any
  funny color or texture in the feces [9.2] or urine could be a sign
  of any of a number of problems.  Stress, perhaps from a change in
  environment, can also cause this.

Lumps in the body or feet
  These may be cysts or infections, or they might be associated
  with a tumor, either benign or cancerous.  They can also be a sign
  of dietary problems or a vaccine reaction.  Have any swelling or
  lump checked out.  For more information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ
  on Skin Tumors [1.1].

Difficulty using the hind feet, awkward gait, lack of movement
  Most often a sign of an adrenal or islet cell tumor (insulinoma), or
  arthritis, in older ferrets.  Could also be an injured back, the
  result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the
  like.  Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily
  injured.

  Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness:

     This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the
     most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the
     spinal cord or those innervating the legs.  In most of these
     cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in
     paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness.

Overheating
  Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all.  They (like
  any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping
  them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in
  summer.  Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also
  a bit risky.  Temperatures as low as the 80's can be life-threatening
  to ferrets without shade and cool water [9.4].

Loose skin and dull eyes
  Generally caused by dehydration, which is quite serious in  such
  a small animal.  Get your ferret to drink more, take him to a vet for
  subcutaneous fluids, and look for the underlying cause.

Unexplained hair loss
  Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year
  (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a
  severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected [7.3].

Seizures
  It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem.  Most
  often the result of insulinomasin the pancreas causing
  extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too.

Diarrhea or vomiting
  Both of these are serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated.
  Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that
  ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of diseases.  Ferrets do
  sometimes vomit from excitement, stress, a change of diet, or
  overeating, but if it's repetitive or if there are any signs of
  blood, get to a vet.  During shedding season ferrets may "spit up" a
  bit due to hair in the throat.  This can be helped with Petromalt
  [6.3].  For more information on Epizootic Catarrhal Enteritis (the
  "Green Diarrhea Virus"), see the Ferret Medical FAQ on ECE [1.1].

Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy
 Yes, ferrets catch human flu.  (They can't catch your colds,
  though.)  They'll generally rest and drink a lot.  A visit to the
  vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the flu looks
  bad or lasts more than a few days.

Broken tooth
  If only the tip is broken, the tooth may discolor slightly, but it's
  nothing to worry about.  A more extensive break will cause pain, a
  definite unhealthy look to the tooth, and possibly gum problems, and
  should be treated (probably root canal or removal) by a vet or a
  veterinary dentist.

Persistent hacking or coughing
  An occasional cough might be caused by dust or swallowed fur, and
  can be treated with a bit of cat hairball preventative.  A
  persistent cough is most likely a respiratory infection, probably
  viral.  A fever, yellow or green discharge from the eyes or nose, or
  congestion indicate a bacterial infection.  In either case, see a
  vet.  Another possibility is cardiomyopathy.  For more information,
  see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Cardiomyopathy [1.1].

Swollen vulva
  In an unspayed female, she's probably going into heat, especially if
  it's springtime.  For young spayed ferrets, under 18 months or so,
  the most common problem is pieces of the ovary that were missed in
  the spaying and have begun to produce hormones.  These pieces might
  be scattered around the abdomen.  For older ferrets, however, by far
  the most common cause of a swollen vulva is adrenal disease, usually
  cancer.  For more information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal
  Disease [1.1].

Return to male behavior (in a neutered male)
  The most common reason for a neutered male to try to mate,
  dribble urine or mark his areas, become aggressive, or have erections
  is unusual hormone production caused by adrenal disease.  For more
  information, see the Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal Disease [1.1].
  Other possibilities include cryptorchidism (a testicle which never
  descended into the scrotum and so wasn't removed) or bladder stones.
  The treatment for any of these is surgery.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.2) My ferret's had funny-looking stools for a few days.
           What's wrong?

Maybe nothing.  If there are no stools at all, though, he may have
an intestinal blockage.

According to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM:

    Ferrets occasionally have dietary "indiscretions" and may get hold
    of something that is not particularly to the GI tract's liking.
    They may get loose or discolored stools, and if no groceries are
    going in for a day or so, their stools will lose volume and may
    become somewhat thin.  As long as they are playing and acting
    okay, they can usually tolerate this for 48-72 hours.  If it goes
    on any longer than this, or their play/sleep cycles become
    affected, then it's off to the vet for a check.  Most problems
    resolve within 72 hours on their own.  If it doesn't, then there
    may be a problem.  (However watch for dark tarry stools - they are
    more than just discolored and indicate GI bleeding.  If you ever
    see these - go see your vet.  Likewise for profuse green
    diarrhea.)  A one- to two-week course of Laxatone is also a good
    idea following changes in stools.  If there is some foreign matter
    in the intestine, it will help it move along, and, at any rate, it
    won't hurt.

    I caution everyone - don't throw out those abnormal stools without
    going through them (pick them apart in a bowl of water) and seeing
    if there is any foreign material in them.  It may sound "gross",
    but it can tell you if your ferret is eating something it
    shouldn't.

Dr. Charles Weiss, DVM, adds that GI parasites such as giardia and
coccidia can sometimes be the cause, though it's not common; and even
lymphosarcoma may cause funny-looking stools.  Both of those will
generally present other symptoms, too, though.

One thing you can try for mild cases, especially after consulting your
veterinarian, is Pepto Bismol.  Most ferrets don't like the taste of
the liquid, but you can give them 1/15th of a tablet crushed up in
food instead.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.3) What are these little (black oily)/(red waxy)/(orange
           crusty) spots on my ferret's tail/skin?

Reddish-brown wax or black spots on the tail

Ferrets sometimes get tiny black spots on their tails, often
accompanied by a reddish-brown waxy deposit and hair loss.  They look
a lot like blackheads, and in fact that's probably pretty much what
they are.  Gentle cleaning, perhaps with a medicated cleanser (a
dilute benzoyl peroxide shampoo) that your vet can recommend, should
help, though it may take many weeks.  Often this is a seasonal problem
that clears up on its own in a few months.

Orange-speckled, crusty patches

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    An orange, flaky discoloration of the skin is a very non-specific
    finding in the ferret.  The crustiness of the skin means that the
    skin is not coming off in small microscopic flakes (1 to several
    cells at a time) like normally happens.  When you see a crust - it
    means that the normal way that a ferret sheds devitalized
    epidermis [dead skin] has been impaired.

    As far as the cause - there is not just one cause.  Many things
    can cause this change - skin parasites, fleas, ear mites,
    bacterial infections of hair follicles, fungus, endocrine disease,
    even distemper.

    Minor skin disorders such as these are more common with age.  They
    may be exacerbated by poor husbandry, or excessive bathing (more
    than once per week to ten days.)

    Most cases are due to a very superficial bacterial infection which
    will respond well to a weekly application of a gentle bactericidal
    shampoo.  Other tests that can be done at the time of diagnosis by
    your vet would include a skin scraping and fungal culture.  Should
    all tests turn up negative, and a four-week course of topical
    therapy not help, then the next step would be biopsy and
    submission to a pathology lab for microscopic examination.

Allergies are another possibility; and the area around bites, whether
caused by fleas or another animal, may take on a pink or orangish
color from dried blood.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.4) How well do ferrets handle heat?  What about cold?


Ferrets don't tolerate heat well at all.  Even temperatures in the 80s
(say, above 27C or so) can cause problems, and older ferrets can be
even more sensitive.  The first thing to do, of course, is to prevent
heat exposure in the first place, by providing shade and plenty of
cool water.  If you live in a hot climate, you must realize that your
ferret will need special care in mid-summer.  Never leave a ferret or
any pet in a car in hot weather, even with the windows partly open.
It just doesn't do enough good.

There are a couple of ways to keep your ferrets cooler if you don't
have air conditioning.  Fans are an obvious idea, and a plastic bottle
of ice wrapped in a towel is also helpful.  Finally, you can drape a
damp towel over your ferrets' cage, set a bucket of water on top, and
drape another wet rag over the side of the bucket so one end is at the
bottom of the bucket and the other is on the cage towel.  The rag acts
as a wick to keep the towel wet, and the cage stays cooler from
evaporation.

Ferrets in distress from heat will first pant, then go limp, then lose
touch with their surroundings.  The first thing to do is to get the
ferret out of the hot place and start cooling him down slowly.  Cool
water is best, but not too cold, since the ferret's body temperature
will drop way too far, with him unable to stop it.  Anything you can
get him to drink is good, but never force liquids into an unconscious
animal.

After these emergency measures, get your pet to the vet immediately.
Even ferrets that seem to have recovered may die within 48 hours due
to the massive shock they've undergone.  Things to watch for include
tarry stools and vomiting.

On the other hand, ferrets handle cold pretty well.  If they have full
winter coats, they'll be perfectly happy living in a chilly room, say
60 F (15 C).  They can easily handle going outdoors in cold weather,
and many of them love to play in the snow.  Use common sense, though.
Don't take your ferrets out in really frigid (much below freezing) or
wet weather, and bring them inside if they shiver too much, paw at the
door, or try to climb up into your coat.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.5) How can I get rid of these fleas?

Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or
their eggs on your shoes or clothing.

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of
fleas and ticks.  It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets.
You can also get it by FTP:
<URL:ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks>
(that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file)
or by sending email to
<[e-mail]>
with the line
SEND usenet/news.answers/pets/fleas-ticks
in the body of the message (with an empty subject line).

In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe
for ferrets.  Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use
anything containing organophosphates, carbamates, or petroleum
distillates.  Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are
much safer.  Follow the directions on the bottle carefully.

The Program oral flea medication hasn't been tested on ferrets, but
the general consensus is that it's safe, and many people have been
using it in ferrets (at the cat dose) successfully.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds:

    You can use a premise spray around the cage, but often, the house
    requires bombing, too.  Get a bomb from your vet which contains
    methoprene (a flea growth regulator).  This will allow you to
    complete the job in just two applications - one to kill the adults
    and larva, the second two weeks later to get the ones that have
    hatched out since the first spray. (Make sure of course to remove
    your ferrets from the house at the time of the bombing...)  Fleas
    can be a real nuisance - before you bomb, make sure to wash all of
    their bedding and vacuum carefully so you only have to do it
    twice....

    Most insect foggers don't have a strong enough residual effect to
    hurt your ferrets. We routinely bomb our house for fleas and two
    hours later, the ferrets and dogs are romping through the house.
    (But I know that Siphotrol has a weak residual.)

    Signs of trouble - lack of appetitie, rumbling stomachs, diarrhea,
    vomiting, salivation, dilated pupils, stumbling.  You probably
    won't see them, but it's nice to know what to look for...

------------------------------

Subject: (9.6) How do I tell if my ferret has ear mites?  What do I do
           about them?

Check when you clean your ferret's ears, perhaps once a month [6.7].
Reddish-brown ear wax is normal, but if you see any thick, black
discharge then you probably have mites.  It's also a good idea to have
your vet check the ears whenever you visit.  You can't catch ear mites
from your pet, but your cats, dogs, and other ferrets certainly can.

Dr. Williams, DVM says:

    Ferrets very commonly get ear mites, so you don't need to get
    upset.  Check with your vet and get two products: a ceruminolytic
    (such as "Oti-Clens"), which will dissolve the wax that the mites
    live in.  This is far preferable to trying to dig the wax out with
    Q-tips.  Then get a good ear miticide from your vet (I use
    Tresaderm).

    Put a little of the ear cleaner (which dissolves the wax) in the
    ear and massage.  Let it sit for about a minute.  Your ferret will
    probably shakes its head, sending wax all over you and the floor.
    Use a Q-tip and gently collect the rest of the wax from the ear
    canal.  You won't hit the ear drum, as the ferrets ear canal is
    roughly L-shaped - you will just be cleaning the vertical part of
    the canal.  After you have cleaned the wax, put the ear drops
    [miticide] in.  Make sure that the fluids that you are using are
    body temperature - put them in your shirt or pocket for a few
    minutes before using.  No one likes cold water in their ears!!!!

    Clean every day for a week to 10 days, stop for a week, and go
    again for another week to take care of mites.  If your problem is
    just dirty ears (some ferrets have a lot of wax) - just use the
    ear wax remover once a week.

    Ivermectin can be used in bad cases, either orally, injected, or
    directly in the ear.  Today I ran across an article (Bell, JA.
    Parasites of Domesticated Pet Ferrets, Comp. Clin. Educ. Pract.
    Vet. 16(5): 617-620), which gives a dosage for topical
    administration of ivermectin:

    Injectable ivermectin is mixed with propylene glycol at a ration
    of approximately 1:20 - then 0.2 to 0.3 ml (4-6 drops) into each
    ear canal daily.  Ferrets on ivermectin for heartworm prevention
    should not have problems with ear mites.

Dr. Susan Brown, DVM says:

    Do not depend on the oil [used for cleaning] to completely rid
    your pet of mites either although it will help to suffocate them.
    Mites are easily taken care of by using Ivermectin directly in the
    ears at 0.5mg/kg divided into two doses to be used in each ear and
    then repeated in two weeks.  You need to have a positive diagnosis
    of mites made by your vet and get the medication from him or her.

------------------------------

Subject: (9.7) Do I need to worry about heartworms?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, reports:

    I took a few minutes to call a veterinarian, Dr. Debra Kemmerer in
    Gainesville FL, who has been working with heartworm disease in
    ferrets, and I thought that I would pass on what she has told me.

    She recommends all ferrets in heartworm endemic areas (ask your
    vet if your local is heartworm-endemic - generally southern areas
    have higher rates of heartworms due to increased numbers of
    mosquitoes).

    She is currently using ivermectin in the ferret at the dose of 10
    micrograms/lb.  She mixes her own liquid formula at 100 mcg/ml,
    and gives each ferret 1/10th of a ml per pound of body weight.

    The reason she mixes her own is that in the tablet form that most
    heartworm prevention is available for in dogs, the drug is not
    spread evenly throughout the tablet, so that if you are breaking
    the tablet and giving your ferrets a piece of the tablet, you may
    be giving them too little, or worse, too much.

    For your vets, prior to using prevention, the ferrets (like dogs)
    can be tested with antigen kits (not a direct smear, as many
    infections are "occult" in ferrets, and do not shed the baby worms
    in the blood, as they do in the dog.)  Dr. Kemmerer says that the
    best (and only) effective test out their is Rhone-Merieux's
    "Vet-Red Heartworm Detection Kit".  All others are either not
    effective in diagnosing the disease, or need extensive
    modification.

    She has been formulating her own preventative in liquid,
    easy-dosing form for 7 years now, and has NOT seen any side
    effects.  She does caution, however, that it must be dispensed in
    an amber bottle, so it doesn't degrade in sunlight.

    She also advocates that prevention is the way to go here - she
    expects to lose 50% of the animals treated for heartworm disease.

    I hope that everyone will apprise their vets of these comments.
    For more information about heartworm disease in ferrets, or how to
    prescribe ivermectin in the ferret, you may contact Dr. Debra
    Kemmerer at West End Animal Veterinary Hospital, Gainesville, FL
    at 904-332-4357.

10. *** Common health problems ***

------------------------------

Subject: (10.1) Overview of common health problems

All of section 10.1 was written by Susan A. Brown, DVM.

Most common health problems of the pet ferret

------------------------------

Subject: (10.1.1) Noninfectious health problems

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

A. GI Foreign Bodies [i.e., swallowing things they shouldn't have]

       This is the MOST COMMON cause of wasting and acute abdominal
   disease in the ferret under 1 year of age.  It occurs with less
   frequency in older ferrets.
       Ferrets love to chew and eat rubber and "sweaty" objects.  The
   most common foreign bodies we remove are latex rubber pet toys,
   foam rubber, insoles and soles of shoes, pipe insulation, chair
   foot protectors, along with towels, cotton balls, plastic, metal,
   and wood.
       Hair balls are VERY COMMON particularly in the ferret 2 years
   of age and older.
       Most foreign bodies remain in the stomach if they are too large
   to pass and cause a slow wasting disease that may last for months.
   (This is the way that most hairballs present.)  However, if the
   foreign material passes out of the stomach and lodges in the small
   intestine, then the pet becomes acutely ill, severely depressed,
   dehydrated, in extreme abdominal pain and finally coma and death
   within 24 to 48 hours if surgery is not performed.
       Other signs that your pet may have a foreign body are pawing at
   the mouth frequently, vomiting (although remember that many pets
   with foreign bodies do not vomit), appetite that goes on and off,
   black tarry stools that come and go.
       Prevention is by use of a cat hairball laxative either every day
   or every other day (about 1") and ferret proofing your house on
   hands and knees for potential foreign body items.
       Treatment is generally surgery, because if it is too large to
   leave the stomach, it has to come out somehow!

B. Aplastic Anemia

       A common cause of death of unspayed breeding females.
       The cause is a condition caused by high levels of the hormone
   estrogen that is produced during the heat period which in turn
   suppresses the production of vital red and white blood cells in the
   bone marrow.  This suppression is irreversible as the disease
   advances and death occurs from severe anemia, bleeding (because the
   blood can't clot properly), and secondary bacterial infections
   because there aren't enough white blood cells to fight.
       Signs are seen in animals in heat 1 month or longer (they can
   stay in heat up to 180 days if unbred), and include general
   depression and hind limb weakness that seems to occur suddenly and
   sudden loss of appetite.  Additionally there may be marked hair
   loss and baldness on the body.
       Upon closer exam the gums appear light pink or white, and there
   may be small hemorrhages under the skin.  A complete blood count
   should be done to determine the severity of the damage to the bone
   marrow.
       If the condition is advanced, there is no treatment as it is
   irreversible, and euthanasia is recommended.  If the disease is
   caught early, treatment may include a spay, multiple transfusions
   and other supportive care.
       Prevention is by having animals not designated for breeding
   spayed by 6 months of age.  Those to be used for breeding should
   use the hormone HCG for taking them out of heat during cycles when
   they will not be bred.  The use of vasectomized males can sometimes
   be unreliable, and we do not recommend it.

C. Anal Gland Impaction

       Caused when the animal has a blockage to the outflow of anal
   gland secretion or abnormally thick anal gland material.
       Signs are few, doesn't seem to cause them much pain.  If the
   gland ruptures, a draining hole will be seen near the anus, and the
   pet may lick at the area frequently.
       Treatment is by surgical removal of the anal glands.  Even if
   only one is affected now, remove both as the other may become
   affected later.
       There is no prevention, and this disease does not occur with
   sufficient frequency to warrant routine anal gland removal in all
   ferrets.

D. Cataracts

       Caused when the lens of the eye becomes opaque.  Light can no
   longer reach the retina and the animal becomes blind.  In ferrets
   it is primarily seen in animals under one year of age and is
   considered to be hereditary.  In other cases it may be caused by
   aging of the eye in very old animals or as a result of injury to
   the eye.
       Signs are almost nonexistent.  Ferrets have very poor eyesight
   and do not depend on it for much.  Many people are surprised to
   find that their ferrets are blind.  They eyes will have a whiteish
   blue cast to the area of the pupil.
       Treatment is unnecessary.
       Prevention of hereditary cataracts is by not repeating the
   breeding.

E. Cardiomyopathy

[There is a separate FAQ devoted to cardiomyopathy; see section 1.1.]

       Seen generally in animals over 3 years of age, rare in young.
   Caused by an abnormal thinning or thickening of the heart muscle
   which interferes with blood flow through the heart.
       Signs include a marked decrease in activity, the need to rest
   in the middle of the play periods, great difficulty in awakening
   from sleep, and as the disease progresses one may see coughing,
   difficulty breathing, fluid build-up in the abdomen and a general
   loss of condition.
       Diagnosis is by x-ray and EKG.
       Treatment is dependent on which type of heart muscle
   abnormality is present.  There is no cure for this disease,
   treatment helps to alleviate symptoms and reduce he work load on
   the heart and attempt to prolong life.

F. Urolithiasis (Bladder Stones)

       The cause is not completely understood.  A high ash content of
   the diet and possible underlying bacterial or viral infections, and
   even some genetic predisposition may all play a part. This
   condition is rarely seen in animals on a low ash cat food.
       Signs include blood in the urine, difficulty in urinating (may
   be accompanied by crying when urinating), "sandy" material being
   passed in the urine, and in the most severe cases there may be a
   complete blockage leading to no urine being passed and eventual
   depression, coma and death.
       Treatment depends on the size of the stones.  Surgery may be
   indicated or a change to a special diet may solve the problem.
       Prevention is by feeding a low ash diet.

------------------------------

Subject: (10.1.2) Parasitic health problems

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

A. Ear Mites

       Caused by a small mite that lives in the ear and sucks blood
   and is picked up from other animals with mites (including dogs and
   cats).
       Signs are very minimal to none.  Ferrets seem to tolerate mites
   very well.  Occasionally there may be an excessive amount of ear
   wax produced, extensive scratching of the ears, and small black
   pigmented areas that appear on the ear.
       Treatment is with Ivermectin at 1 mg/kg divided into two doses
   with each dose dropped into each ear.  This is repeated in two
   weeks.  All the animals in the house should be treated.  Wash
   bedding the same day as treatment and a bath for the pet wouldn't
   hurt, either.  They also may be treated with Tresaderm daily for 14
   days.

B. Fleas

       Caused by an insect that spends a small portion of its life on
   the animal and lives in the surrounding environment laying eggs the
   rest of the time.
       Prevented by spraying or powdering your animals 2 times a week
   with a pyrethrin product if they go outside. If you already have
   them, the house must be treated also.

------------------------------

Subject: (10.1.3) Infectious diseases

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

A. Influenza virus

       Caused by the same complex of viruses that cause disease in
   humans.  They can catch it from humans or other ferrets.
       Signs include a runny nose (clear discharge), runny eyes,
   sneezing, coughing, decrease but not total loss in appetite,
   lethargy and occasionally diarrhea.  In newborns it may be fatal.
       Treatments is generally nothing specific except rest and loving
   care.  They generally get over it in 3 to 7 days (recall how long
   your flu lasted, and they will generally be the same), The
   antihistamine product Chlor Trimeton may be used at 1/4 tablet 2
   times daily for sneezing that may interfere with sleeping or
   eating.  If the appetite is totally lost or if any green or yellow
   discharges appear or if there is extreme lethargy, these animals
   should be seen by a veterinarian.
       Prevention is washing hands and no kissing when you are dealing
   with a cold.  Also remember, they can give the flu right back to
   you!

B. Canine Distemper

       A 100% fatal disease that is still very much out there!  It is
   caused by a virus that attacks many organs in the body.  The virus
   can stay alive for a long time on shoes and clothes that have come
   in contact with infected material.  (Such as from walks in parks or
   other areas where animals roam).
       Signs range from acute [quick] death to a slow progressive
   disease which usually starts as an eye infection and progresses to
   a rash on the chin and lips and abdomen, and thickened hard pads on
   the feet.  Diarrhea, vomiting, severe lethargy are other possible
   signs.  The disease may be very drawn out with seizures and coma at
   the end.
       There is no treatment for distemper.  Euthanasia is the kindest
   solution as it is a long and painful way to go.
       Prevention is by vaccination with the Fromm-D [or Fervac-D]
   distemper vaccine.  [Be careful about Galaxy-D, which has sometimes
   been "invisibly" substituted for Fromm-D.  It's still untested in
   ferrets.]  Use of other vaccines have occasionally caused cases of
   distemper in ferrets.  The schedule would be the first shot at 6
   weeks of age then 8 weeks, 11 weeks, 14 weeks and annually
   thereafter.  The vaccine WILL NOT last for 3 years in the face of
   an outbreak.  Ferrets do not need vaccines containing
   leptospirosis, hepatitis, parainfluenza or any other dog virus.

C. Aleutian disease

       Caused by a parvovirus that invades many organs of the body and
   sets up a type of autoimmune response.
       The actual disease is rare in the ferret.  It is seen in
   isolated outbreaks mostly in breeding facilities where many young
   animals are present.
       The signs are very variable and range from slow wasting to
   sudden death with black tarry stools.
       A blood test can detect antibodies to the virus, but a positive
   test in a clinically normal animal does not indicate euthanasia.
       We are generally only recommending the test for those that are
   breeding ferrets. This is not a recommended routine test for
   ferrets already in a pet household.  We also use the test to help
   diagnose disease in a clinically ill animal.

------------------------------

Subject: (10.1.4) Neoplasia (Cancer)

by Dr. Susan Brown, DVM

[Each of these four cancers has its own FAQ; see section 1.1]

A. Lymphosarcoma

       This is a disease of the lymphatic system of the body which is
   an important part of the immune system.  The cause is unknown but
   investigation is being done to determine if there is a virus
   involved.  It can occur in ferrets of any age.
       Signs are very variable, and many animals show no outward signs
   until they are very ill, or changes are picked up on a routine
   veterinary exam.  Changes may include enlarged lymph nodes anywhere
   in or on the body, a greatly enlarged spleen, wasting, difficulty
   breathing, and extreme lethargy.  A complete blood cell count may
   indicate abnormal (cancerous) cells present, although this occurs
   in a very small percentage of cases.
       Diagnosis is generally by biopsy of a lymph node, spleen or
   fluid from the chest.
       Treatment is by chemotherapy of the animal fulfills certain
   criteria that would make it a good candidate, Chemotherapy has been
   successful in about 75% of our cases, allowing life to be prolonged
   in a quality way for 6 months to 2 years.

B. Insulinoma

       This is a tumor of the pancreas leading to a high insulin
   production and a low blood sugar.

C. Adrenal Adenoma or Adenocarcinoma

       This is a tumor of the adrenal gland.

D. Skin tumors

       There are a variety of skin tumors occurring in the pet ferret.
   The most common are sebaceous gland adenomas, and mast cell tumors.
   Most of these should be removed particularly if they are ulcerated,
   bleeding, or have a rough surface.
    Chondromas occur with some frequency on the tip of the tail as
   a hard round lump.  They are generally benign, but may become large
   and bothersome and can easily be removed.

------------------------------

Subject: (10.2) Other common problems and more information

Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list
of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets, especially
older ones.

Intestinal blockages
   Caused by eating something indigestible, such as an eraser, a
   rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized hairball
   (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck.  Symptoms may
   include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation,
   bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others.  Blockages may
   occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through
   the lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move
   around and produce only intermittent symptoms.  Laxatone or a
   similar hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this [6.3].
   Treatment is surgery, to remove the blockage.

Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands
   Symptoms vary, including hair loss spreading from the base of the
   tail forward [7.3], lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of
   coordination in the hindquarters.  In females, often the most
   prominent sign is an enlarged vulva as in heat.  Often, however, a
   tumor will be present without showing any signs at all, so if your
   ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet should take a look at
   the adrenal glands as well (if time permits -- ferrets lose body
   heat very quickly in surgery).  The left gland seems to be affected
   more often than the right.  More information is available in the
   Ferret Medical FAQ on Adrenal Disease [1.1].

Islet cell tumors (insulinoma)
   These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in the pancreas.  Their
   main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level, and they are also
   common enough in older ferrets, even without symptoms, that if your
   pet is having surgery for something else, a quick check is
   worthwhile.  Symptoms include lethargy, loss of appetite, wobbly
   gait, and pawing at the mouth; in more severe cases attention
   lapses (staring into space) or seizures may also occur.  If you're
   more than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough
   blood sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if
   you should rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup or honey on your pet's gums
   to raise it just enough to bring him out of the seizure.  More
   information is available in the Ferret Medical FAQ on Insulinoma
   [1.1].

Splenomegaly [enlarged spleen, usually a swelling in the upper abdomen]
   In situations where a neoplasm is not present [this is a common
   symptom of lymphosarcoma], the pros and cons of splenectomy should
   be discussed with your veterinarian.  If an animal simply has a
   large spleen, but shows no signs of illness or discomfort, it is
   safer for the animal to leave it in.  However, if the animal shows
   signs of discomfort, such as lethargy and a poor appetite, or a
   decrease in activity, then the spleen may come out.  Finally, if
   the spleen is especially large, and the animal is very active,
   there is a risk of splenic rupture, and once again, splenectomy
   should be considered.  More information is available in the
   Ferret Medical FAQ on Splenomegaly [1.1].

Lymphosarcoma [also called lymphoma]
   Lymphosarcoma is the most common type of cancer in the ferret.
   It is a tumor of a certain type of white blood cell, and the most
   common clinical sign is enlargement of the lymph nodes.  It may
   also arise in the abdomen, where lymph nodes can only be felt with
   reasonable accuracy by your veterinarian.  It is most commonly seen
   in older animals from 4-6 years of age, although animals as young
   as a year old can have it.  While animals initially respond well to
   chemotherapy, they usually relapse in 2 months or less, and
   generally are put to sleep at this time.  The prognosis for any
   ferret with lymphosarcoma is poor.  A lymph node biopsy, read by a
   pathologist who is familiar with ferret tissue, is the ONLY way to
   diagnose lymphosarcoma.  More information is available in the
   Ferret Medical FAQ on Lymphosarcoma [1.1].

Gastric ulcers
   Ferrets may develop gastric ulcers in time of stress.  Clinical
   signs are dark, tarry stools, a lack of appetite, and grinding of
   the teeth.  It can be treated by your vet, but it takes 3-4 weeks
   to recover from this condition.  You must first remove the stress
   from the animals environment before any recovery can begin.  These
   animals also need good nursing care to get them back on their food.
   Often caused by H. mustelae infection (see below).  With proper
   care - recovery rates are over 90%.

Helicobacter mustelae infection
   Infection of the stomach lining by a bacteria, Helicobacter
   mustelae is extremely common in ferrets.  Animals with
   long-standing infections (generally older animals), may develop
   gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid
   production in the stomach.  Signs of a problem include repetitive
   vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see
   above).  Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in
   hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer
   formation has not been totally worked out, although there is
   currently a lot of research in this area.

   Dr. Scott Perkins, VMD, says:

      The treatment of choice involves a "triple therapy" consisting
      of amoxicillin (10 mg/kg), metronidazole (20 mg/kg), and liquid
      Pepto-Bismol (17.5 mg/kg) [or De-Nol at 12 mg/kg divided BID for
      those of you in Europe].  All drugs should be given 3 times a
      day for 3 weeks.  The definitive methods of determining
      infection and cure of infection are serology (blood test) and/or
      gastric biopsy and culture.  Since these methods are either not
      widely available (serology for H. mustelae) or difficult to
      perform (biopsy and culture), response to treatment is the best
      indicator of cure.

Cutaneous vaccine reactions
   Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over
   a period of weeks, cause a hard lump [9.1] at the site of
   vaccination.  The lump simply consists of a large area of
   inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck.  The lumps
   can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your
   pet.  Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats.

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11. *** General medical information ***

------------------------------

Subject: (11.1) What are normal body temperature, blood test results, etc.?

Temperature             101-103 F (38.3 - 39.4 C), 104 F (40 C) is borderline
Heart rate              216-400/min
Respiration             33-36/min
Urine specific gravity  > 1.030


There are, of course, dozens of components in your ferret's blood
which can help your vet determine what's wrong.  Here are some of the
ones people ask about most often, and normal ranges.  If you want to
know more about what your ferret's tests mean, don't hesitate to ask
your vet.

Blood glucose (fasted)          85-125 mg/dl
Blood glucose (not fasted)      up to 207 mg/dl
White blood cells               3500-6500/mm3
Lymphocytes                     25%-50%

------------------------------

Subject: (11.2) What anesthetic should my vet be using?

Isoflurane, an inhalant.  Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

    The only acceptable type of anesthetic agent for general
    anesthesia in the ferret is gas, and preferably a gas anesthetic
    called isoflurane.  Most vets use it, but other types of gas
    anesthetics, such as halothane are still in use.  Isoflurane
    currently is the safest, with the least chance of generating a
    life-threatening cardiac arrhythmia or causing liver disease, both
    of which may be seen (rarely) with halothane.  Most
    ferrets, even with severe disease, will go down quickly with
    isoflurane, and come up within 5-10 minutes.  No other
    premedications are necessary [unlike for the injectable ketamine].

    I would not use a vet who used injectable anesthetic for surgery -
    chances are much higher for overdosing.  The effects of injectable
    anesthetics are extremely unpredictable in the ferret, and older
    ferrets are at risk for arrhythmia and cardiovascular shock.

------------------------------

Subject: (11.3) Do I need to worry about toxoplasmosis?

Toxoplasmosis is a disease which is sometimes spread through animal
feces, especially cats'.  It's nothing to worry about, unless you're
pregnant, have a very young child, or have a weakened immune system --
it's very dangerous to a human fetus in the first stages of
development, it may be dangerous to infants and toddlers, and it's a
concern for those who are HIV+.  Ask your doctor if you think you
might be susceptible.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

     Toxoplasmosis has been reported twice in ferrets.  Ferrets will
     not shed the toxoplasma organism to the extent that cats do, but
     if they are exposed to cat feces, they may contract the disease
     and shed very low amounts of oocysts.

     Here's the bottom line.  Becuase of the devastating effects that
     Toxoplasma can have on a developing human fetus in the first
     trimester - you don't want to take ANY chance at all on exposing
     [a pregnant woman] to Toxo.  So [someone in the household who
     isn't pregnant] inherits all litterbox duties for the next
     nine months.  Actually, she probably stands a higher chance of
     getting Toxo from poorly cooked beef.  The doctor says - if she's
     a carnivore - better get used to well-done steaks....

------------------------------

Subject: (11.4) My ferret won't eat.  What should I do?

If your ferret gets sick, chances are your vet will tell you to feed
him softened food for a time while he recovers.  Even so, sometimes an
upset or recovering ferret will simply refuse to eat on his own.  If
that happens, a good thing to try is Gerber's Second Meals chicken baby
food.  It's full of nutrients and water (though it's not a good
full-time food [6.2]) and most ferrets love it.  Put a little on your
finger and let your ferret lick it; if he won't try it, carefully
smear a little on his nose.  He should lick it off and eat the rest
from your fingers eagerly.  In general, ferrets like attention, and
they love to be hand-fed.  You can add Nutra-Cal, Pedialyte,
medications, and so forth to the baby food if your vet recommends
them, and as your ferret's recovery progresses, you can mix in
portions of his regular food, moistened somewhat, to gradually work
him back to eating dry food on his own.

------------------------------

Subject: (11.5) What's Duck Soup?  Anyone have a recipe?

Duck Soup, also called Ferret Soup and similar things, is a
high-calorie, high-protein concoction meant to be fed to old or sick
ferrets in order to fatten them up and help them regain their health.

The following comes from Ann Davis:

ACME Ferret Company --- The Original  DUCK SOUP

For years, we have been trying to find a super formula to fatten up
sick ferrets, oldsters and ferrets with ulcers.  We have been looking
for something high in calories and protein, with added vitamins. After
trying just about everything on the market for pets, we had just about
given up, and were making do with some things that were not quite
perfect for the little guys, because everything made for cats that we
could find had a condensed milk base.

[If your ferret is really sick, you may have to work your way through]
all the steps, from full Sustacal to Duck Soup in caring for a sick
ferret.

We have heard of many miraculous recoveries attributed to Duck Soup.
It has helped old ferrets, ferrets with insulinoma, ferrets with hair
loss, and ferrets who are just plain too sick to eat.

DUCK SOUP

1 can Sustacal (8 oz., or about 230 ml; it comes in a larger size too)
1 can water    (8 oz., or about 230 ml)
2 scoops puppy or kitten weaning formula -- OPTIONAL
4 oz. (110 g? or ml?) dry kitten or ferret food, soaked in enough water to
           cover and soften it completely

[Sustacal is meant for humans; look for it by baby formulas or in the
pharmacy section of your supermarket.  Debbie Riccio says you can also
use Ensure, Discover 2.0, or Just Born (puppy/kitten milk replacer).]

Mix thoroughly.  We always nuke it for them to the temperature of baby
formula.  We serve about 4 fluid ounces at a time twice a day for
maintenance; if your little guys eat too much and you feel they are
getting fat, you can increase the amount of water.  We have tried
increasing the amount of dry food, but if it gets too thick some of
them won't eat it. This formula also freezes well -- the Sustacal must
be used within 48 hours if left only in the fridge.

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12. *** Medical reference material ***

------------------------------

Subject: (12.1) What books can I get or recommend to my vet?

There is a series out by the

      American Animal Hospital Association
      12575 West Bayaud Ave.
      Lakewood, CO  80228
      tel. [phone]

for practitioners on exotic pets.  There are five books in the series.
Dr. Jeff Jenkins and Dr. Susan Brown produced the one on Rabbits and
Ferrets (he did the rabbit part).  It is practical and useful; it has
drug dosages, treatments, husbandry, normal clinical pathology values,
and diagnostic techniques that might be useful for your vet.

------------------------------

Subject: (12.2) Are there any other useful references?

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, recommends these references on cancers:

Lawrence HJ et al.  Unilateral adrenalectomy as a treatment for
     adrenocortical tumors in ferrets: Five cases (1990-1992).  JAVMA
     203(2): pp 267-270, 15 July 1993.

Rosenthal KL et al.  Hyperadrenocorticism associated with
     adrenocortical tumor or nodular hyperplasia of the adrenal gland
     in ferrets: 50 cases (1987-1991).  JAVMA 203(2):pp. 271-275, 15
     July 1993.

Marini, RP et al.  Functional islet cell tumor in six ferrets.  JAVMA
     202(3):430-434, 1 February 1993.



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